Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

The problem is the RB20DET oil sump is touching and rubbing the stock 180sx front swaybar, and I assume particularly under braking this isnt the best for the balance or in terms of wearing the sump. And I assume an aftermarket 180sx swaybar would be in the same position, and thicker to boot so am looking at how to fix it up.

Either a slightly different shaped mid section on an aftermarket swaybar or an adapter/lengthener on an aftermarket swaybar for a 180sx (looking at whiteline) would be the ticket I suppose.

Any ideas on the way to go about it would be great!!

cheers :Pimp2:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76442-sump-touching-swaybay/
Share on other sites

Whiteline do what is referred to as there " big dip" bar which is a std S13/180sx bar plus an extra dip in it.

We use them on our RB20det sil conversions. If you have a drama cos a few of the sales staff don't even know they exist, I will track down the part number for you.

Cheers

Ken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...