Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you already have a car alarm or wish to add SMS on the cheep (but extreemly functional) then check the SMS Controller from Jaycar

To activate the SMS when the car alarm goes off just connect to your siren wiring. Eze!

This kit will also allow you to disarm, arm, open doors, start your car, shut it down if stolen and anything else you can imagine. The kit can send SMS notifications to you and you can send SMS's back to control it.

You will need a soldering iron and a real cheep (second hand) nokia phone.

Im working on this project at the moment and hope to install it in the next few months.

As for starting the car remotely I am thinking a three stage interlock which wont allow the car to start (or shut it down) if:

a) The hand brake is off

B) Its not in neutral

c) It moves before I enter the car and plug in my seatbelt

Im keen to hear your thoughts on what should be on my list of things to have available via SMS control? Ejector Seat? Pepper spray? LOL

M@

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76699-add-sms-control-to-your-car/
Share on other sites

If you already have a car alarm or wish to add SMS on the cheep (but extreemly functional) then check the SMS Controller from Jaycar

To activate the SMS when the car alarm goes off just connect to your siren wiring. Eze!

This kit will also allow you to disarm, arm, open doors, start your car, shut it down if stolen and anything else you can imagine. The kit can send SMS notifications to you and you can send SMS's back to control it.

You will need a soldering iron and a real cheep (second hand) nokia phone.

Im working on this project at the moment and hope to install it in the next few months.

As for starting the car remotely I am thinking a three stage interlock which wont allow the car to start (or shut it down) if:

a) The hand brake is off

B) Its not in neutral

c) It moves before I enter the car and plug in my seatbelt

Im keen to hear your thoughts on what should be on my list of things to have available via SMS control? Ejector Seat? Pepper spray? LOL

M@

* A trap door

*little motors that make the bonnet, boot and doors flap up and down (lots of attention)

*a loudspeaker that yells, "help me im being stolen"

* something that makes the gearlever and steering wheel detach at the bottom of the stem.

My imagination gets to much exercise :)

but you still need a SIM card or something, right? not sure how this works...you can't just plug the jaycar kit into your car, and then have it work with your nokia 7250, could you?

The kit was developed by Silicon Chip Magazine and is sold through Jaycar

The following links will help you understand its operations:

SMS Controller - Part 1

SMS Controller - Part 2

SMS Controller - Add On's

Note: As silicone chip requires membership for full access the links above are a little vague. The full instructions, supplied with the kit, are much easier to understand.

In short the kit has a number of relay inputs which, when shorted to ground, make the micro send an SMS via a compatible nokia phone. You use the phone to program the micro so its easy to customise the messages. Going the other direction the phone receives an SMS and passes it on to the micro which reads the SMS text and validates it. If the text matches what you programmed in it shorts the appropriate output relay to ground. Check the picture at the bottom of SMS Controller - Add On's page for details on the I/O.

Along with the SMS kit you need:

- A compatible nokia phone (3210, 3310, 5110, and 6110)

- A nokia data cable

- SIM card

The phones listed are available in almost every pawn brokers, local paper or from phone shops. I would expect to pay around $20 for a 3210 or 3310.

The data cable can be purchased from nokia or you may build it yourself with a few components and vero-board, its rather simple.

I would use a pre-paid SIM card for this they last about a year and if your only sending on alarm activation the SMS's will be minimal.

Thinking about how I will wire up the alarm to send an SMS upon activation the cable from the alarm to the siren would be easily located.

There is a catch to this though. The siren will sound when you arm / disarm your alarm and you wont want an SMS every time this happens. To overcome this use a 555 Timer IC (about $0.20) and a relay so the alarm must sound for 3 - 8 seconds before it triggers the SMS controller.

I am in the process of drawing up a circuit diagram, schematic and parts list for the project. I’ll post them here once they are complete. All together it should cost no more than $100.

crumbs, matski, this sounds good. thanks heaps for posting up the info.

i'm guessing you'd want to keep the number secret, so someone else can't sms your car either from their phone or yours?

The controller will only activate the appropriate relay when it receives an SMS which matches, exactly, the text you programmed in. So if someone had your number they would also need to know what to put in the SMS text.

To further security you may include a pin in the text eg. '2366 Start Engine'

Unless that exact text was received it would not activate.

Mate I saw that on tv one night. What a pisser. Legal to have, illegal to use.

But the idea of sms in-conjunction with your alarm is a bloody good idea!

Will look in to further.

LOL.. A variation on that could be pepper spray although im guessing if you were to face court over something like that you will almost certainly end up screwed.

The idea would be to hit the cab with a very short burst of spray once:

a) the alarm sounds for more than 10 sec.

B) a little switch behind your stereo, boost controller or any other item of value is triggered.

So if the stereo was tampered with (and the alarm on) a short burst of freshly ground seasoning would incapacitate the offender causing them to be unable to see and thus unable to continue removing your $hit.

I would be working on interlocks & a sealed box for the spray cos a 'misfire' might be rather nasty .. LOL

:boinkcar:

On more practical ideas heated seats would be a nice option. Im thinking about having the skyline re-trimmed in black Oz leather. If that comes about I'll be installing some heaters to. An SMS a few minutes before I enter the car in the morning would ensure warm seats every time. Again an interlock would turn them off if; after 10 minutes the car was not started. Go the 555 timer!

An SMS a few minutes before I enter the car in the morning would ensure warm seats every time.

it'd be wizard to control this with a wireless (wifi) connection - the car's parked in the garage and it transacts with a pc in the house. every night the home pc could download run data for that day. also, the home pc could provide a bit of security by pinging the car pc every few minutes or so: "still there?" "yep!". if the pings stop, the home pc activates cameras somewhere (in the garage? maybe the cabin?).

with the sms connection, it'd also be cool to have it connected to a gps unit, so that if it gets stolen, you can text your car and it will text you back with its current location...

it'd be wizard to control this with a wireless (wifi) connection

Now that’s an idea that should be developed further!

I’m thinking Wi-Fi and a small PC, maybe running Linux or Windows Media Center (yet to test the boot up speeds?). When you drive within range of your home you get all your movies etc sync'd to your car.

As we have climate control why not incorporate that into an application and remove the climate control head unit in the dash. More room for a 15" flat screen I say! 3M make resistive touch screen ad-on's which would fit the part really well.

Watch movies, control your car (lights climate etc) & get engine stats from a 15" dash mount LCD. Now that would look sic and probably win a few awards at car shows to.

I’m thinking Wi-Fi and a small PC, maybe running Linux or Windows Media Center (yet to test the boot up speeds?). When you drive within range of your home you get all your movies etc sync'd to your car.

This has been done, i guy put it in his audi, running via touch screen in dash. I think the thread was on this forum somewherer actually....no idea where though

Just ordered the BR-SC11A from Blue Radios. This quick toturial will show you how easy it is to get the chip working.

I currently use my IMATE Phone / PDA for GPS navigation and playing videos in my car (hooked up to an AUX input on my stereo). With the bluetooth module above I could make a simple app in .NET and control my car via my phone / pda's Bluetooth. A PC version would also be in the making.

Once the chip arrives from the states I'll begin development. If all works out well I'll have a run of PCB's made and put up a post for group buys. It will operate much like the SMS controller with a number of relay inputs & outputs. These would be controlled via a Windows (XP and Pocket PC version) application.

This would work well with the Navman PDA / GPS you can buy for under $500. The Blue Radio's chip can also stream audio so it would make sense to put AUX outputs on the board also.

If we have any programmers / electronics wiz's who would like to develop this further it would be great to work with you? My email:

[email protected]

Remove the caps. Down with the SPAM bots!

M@

I was thinking of developing in .NET only because of cross platform (Win XP and Pocket PC 2003) portability. Either way we will need to access the bluetooth stack so its really what languages we are comfortable with.

On the hardware side. The bluetooth radio chip will need a micro controller to interface with the real world. I think a PICmicro would be most suited to the application. I already have the development boards and lots of assembler code from previous projects. Ehh assembler I hear you say.. LOL.. Have some C (ANSI) also.

Relay and Analogue I/O would connect to the PICmicro then the PIC would communicate via serial to the bluetooth chip. Once I get the bluetooth chip I'll post all the data.

That’s my thoughts so far. Its great to see pplz interested in developing this further so I'll hand it over for your thoughts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
    • Looked it up. It sounds so expensive lmao I'd rather not. Awwwww but I just love that sound
×
×
  • Create New...