Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the differences between a R34 GTR M-Spec and V-spec? What is different from a V-Spec to a V-spec II, what did they change? Is the only difference from a plain jane R34 GTR to a Vspec the suspension and the diff like the R33 GTR?

Can anyone confirm what Nür means, I assume it has something to do with nurburgring, and i read somewhere that you get N1 engine and turbos.

I've never really take an interest in R34s until recently, and was wondering why a plain R34 GTR goes for like 65 grand when, I recently found a R34 GTR Vspec II Nür forsale in japan and it was going to cost like 130 grand by the time it got here and was complied.

V-Spec:

Brake cooling air guide

Front diffuser and rear carbon diffuser

Active LSD and ATTESA-ETS Pro

Harder suspension

Updated tachometer

V-Spec II:

Same extras as V-Spec but based on the "series 2" BNR34 which included

N1 rear calipers on whole GTR range

Aluminium pedals on whole GTR range

Revised interior colour scheme (series 1 grey cloth, series 2 black cloth) on whole GTR range

Revised centre console colour scheme (series 1 gold, series 2 illidium)on whole GTR range

Clear front and side indicators on whole GTR range

Carbon fibre bonnet with NACA duct on V-Spec II

M-Spec:

Based on V-Spec II

Leather interior

Front seat heaters

Special ripple control shock absorber

Special rear stabiliser bar

Fine grip type steering wheel with gold stitching

Aluminium bonnet (optional carbon fibre with NACA duct)

Exclusive body colour

Limited edition of 50 per month

V-spec II Nur & M-Spec Nur:

Based on either V-Spec II or M-Spec with following additions

Limited edition of 1000 build only

N1 turbochargers

N1 engine block

N1 pistons with weight balancing

N1 piston rings

Weight-balanced conrods

N1 oil pump

N1 water pump

N1 exhaust manifold

N1 intercooler piping

Exclusive cam cover colour

Exclusive gold VIN plate

Exclusive rear emblem

The Nur was the last of the last R34 GTR's to come from Nissan, and the last produced RB26DETT's, which is why you pay a premium for them. You can see on the above list of modifications why V-Spec's and M-Specs command a higher price than normal GTR's.

Build figures of each are:

Standard GTR: 3,169

V-Spec: 4,619

Nur: 1000

amaru is spot on .

A couple of things to add to though .

All v-specs + m-specs have 2 extra functions on the mdf , i/cooler temp and exhaust temp .

M-specs have heated external mirrors as well as heated seats .

M-specs made from may 2001 on .

I don't know the biult number for m-specs but all up about 1300 including nur m-specs .

M-specs have bigger battery as well as bigger terminals .

  • 9 years later...

Thanks Guys this has cleared up a lot of things for me too as I am in the process of buying a R34 M spec Nur as I thought someone was trying to sell me a V spec Nur with a M spec rear emblem. Just one more thing, what about the seats I know they are leather and heated on the M spec Nur with yellow or silver stitching, but does the M spec Nur have the same leather seats as the std M spec ?? I think all that does change is the stitching colour I think, on the std M spec its just black stitching as per leather colour ?? . For example heated leather seats with the GTR emblem embossed near the top of the seat below the head rest and black stitching is std and all the M specs and just the colour of the stitching changes on the M spec Nurs ?? Sorry if this question is a little confusing.

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...