Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is this right i thought it b a little more like 160rwkw

Mods

Gts-t R33 skyline rb25det

Computer - Link

Pod

Exhaust 3" think its a turbo back i will have to check with this dyno results might just b cat bak

Front Mouth Intercooler

Turbosmart type 2 BOV

Stock Boost of 7psi

what does a stock Gts-t Get

I know my boost is holding me back i want lower power to get used to the car

Putting a New Pod and Taking AFM out cause link doesn't use it

Might get a little Power gain from that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76873-140rwkw-on-stock-boost/
Share on other sites

For standard boost that sounds about right, with additional boost and the link properly tuned, you should see quite an impressive gain given that a GTS-T with similar mods using a Power FC can achieve between 180 and 200rwkw using the Power FC and standard turbo

dyno figures change between different dyno's. my car got 140rwkw bone stock and with a full exhaust, k+n panel filter and 9psi went up to 170rwkw. i use it more as a baseline to see what extra power the mods have given me. i am sure if i went to a different dyno the figures would drop a little

nah i know that rb25 r 185kw at fly stock i thought that b about 140rwkw with my mods i thought i get like 160rwkw :) o well i just up the boost later

Normally a stock R33 GTS-T would be in the region of 120kw at the wheels in true stock form

thanks man i just got the link tuned for stock boost they said the lack of boost is due to the computer being made for higher then stock Boost

ahahaha, i think you need to go to a better tuner as blitz said, as no ecu is made for higher boost, ecu are made to be tune at any level of boost,

also it isnt very hard to stop pinging and missing at lower boost with stocky mods, im running exhuast,airfilter,fmic,ebc and running 12psi with stock ecu and getting no pinging or missing

um dude, i think something is wrong with your engine.... have u done compression test on it? coz my R33 RB25DET did 163.8 rwkw with just a pod filter (everything else stock)..... then by putting splitfire triple plat plug and SAFCII (untuned) i got it up to 170rwkw..... then with a 3.25" catback exhaust (and jst replaced the cat with a straight thru pipe) i've got it up to 180.9rwkw..... on the 163.8 rwkw run, boost was 7.1psi <4500rpm, then >4500rpm it went up to 8.6psi... and from the latest run i think peak boost was at 9.1psi. I haven't physicaly done anything to alter the boost. According to my mechanic, larger exhaust pipe = faster flow of exhaust gas = more turbine speed = more boost :(. With FMIC and some kind of aftermarket ECU i'll be expecting somewhere around 200+rwkw....... on a stock turbo that is..... i'll post the dyno graph when i can find it... :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...