Jump to content
SAU Community

RB30 Q's

quincy777

By quincy777,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

quincy777 Community Regular

quincy777

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Couple of things to clarify about rb30/25 conversion.

I have read threw the sticky thread, and had some great imput from a couple of guys but need to clarify different answers as I have the block and head ready and waiting.

1. Using sk's 475 hp version of conversion. standard rb30 pistons with ceramic crowns I understand are not the weak point for this power, correct? Does this include boost of upto 20psi? If I have to have forged pistons to be safe - which ones to keep compression high?

2. If standard pistons are ok for above which rings to get?

3. GTR cams/springs, for this power do I need them? or will the rb25de ones be ok upto 250-300rwkw mark.

Thanks for your help guys, just didn't want to find out mistake or waste of money after I have finished.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/
Share on other sites
StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted

consider that with a properly sized turbo (GT35/40 1.06 rear for example) you will be hitting 450rwhp at about 15 psi, judging on what other people have got with decent tuning. the pistons will be fine unless it pings. in which case forgies will last about 2 seconds longer than cast pistons before destroying themselves. the rods are what you need to worry about. standard RB30 rods prepped (stress-relieved then shotpeened) will get you to about 300rwkw reliably, but i wouldn't push them to 7000rpm too regularly, know what i mean? :P

GTR springs could be worthwhile if you are using a DE head - apparently the seating pressure can be a bit iffy on them. or just get it checked by a head specialist and see what sort of pressure they're actually getting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409395
Share on other sites
drunkenmaster Community Regular

drunkenmaster

Posted
Posted

I have just spent quite a bit of time going through the RB30 thread and also various websites and the pdf but one question which is brushed over but not directly addressed, well as far as I can see, is do all RB blocks share the same engine mount bolt pattern, that is, are all RB engine mounts fully interchangeable?

I thought I would post here rather than continue the cluttering of the RB30 thread.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409420
Share on other sites
TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

1.) using SK's 475hp example, you will also have read his main key in that result.

I think it was something like... TUNING...TUNING...TUNING... and more TUNING...

Also, he got that 475HP at the engine using an old T04 of some sort at 1 bar boost. and at 6200rpm was max power.

the low RPM and low BOOST and careful tuning is the reason that engine has over 70,000kms on it and still going.

2.) I believe he used OEM rings, bearings and gaskets.

I think that CUBES PDF also has what part numbers and brands he used. The PDF is in his signature.

3.) Cams should be fine for that figure from other's finding. The Valve springs though... I'm not sure.

Joel (CUBES) and his mate both bought R32 RB25de heads and sent them away for testing.

Joels was fine but the other one had seating issues..

I think the GTR valves will set you back about 300 - 400 dollars and that would be fine for the power you are after.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409601
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
1.) using SK's 475hp example, you will also have read his main key in that result.

I think it was something like... TUNING...TUNING...TUNING... and more TUNING...

Also, he got that 475HP at the engine using an old T04 of some sort at 1 bar boost. and at 6200rpm was max power.

the low RPM and low BOOST and careful tuning is the reason that engine has over 70,000kms on it and still going.

2.) I believe he used OEM rings, bearings and gaskets.

I think that CUBES PDF also has what part numbers and brands he used. The PDF is in his signature.

3.) Cams should be fine for that figure from other's finding. The Valve springs though... I'm not sure.

Joel (CUBES) and his mate both bought R32 RB25de heads and sent them away for testing.

Joels was fine but the other one had seating issues..

I think the GTR valves will set you back about 300 - 400 dollars and that would be fine for the power you are after.

The engine has standard Commondoor everything, rings, bearings, seals the lot.

Yep the trick is low boost, low rpm, keep the power sensible (resist the urge for that extra 20 rwkw's) and TUNING.

It is not a simply swap to stick GTR (solid follower) valve springs in a GTST (hydraulic followers). You have to modify the spring seats and the retainers and set up the seat pressure with shims. That's why we went for 1 bar, the RB25DET springs handled it easily.

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409686
Share on other sites
quincy777 Community Regular

quincy777

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The engine has standard Commondoor everything, rings, bearings, seals the lot.

Yep the trick is low boost, low rpm, keep the power sensible (resist the urge for that extra 20 rwkw's) and TUNING.

It is not a simply swap to stick GTR (solid follower) valve springs in a GTST (hydraulic followers).  You have to modify the spring seats and the retainers and set up the seat pressure with shims.  That's why we went for 1 bar, the RB25DET springs handled it easily.

:)

Thanks for your help guys.

So keep to 1 bar of boost as max, don't rev beyond 6500 regardless of springs and all will be ok.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1410204
Share on other sites
Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted
I have just spent quite a bit of time going through the RB30 thread and also various websites and the pdf but one question which is brushed over but not directly addressed, well as far as I can see, is do all RB blocks share the same engine mount bolt pattern, that is, are all RB engine mounts fully interchangeable?

I thought I would post here rather than continue the cluttering of the RB30 thread.

Thanks guys

The mounting points (bolt pattern) on the blocks are the same, but the actual engine mounts are different between all model rb's ive seen. Rb20 is different to rb25, is different to rb26, is different to rb30 ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1410315
Share on other sites
drunkenmaster Community Regular

drunkenmaster

Posted
Posted
The mounting points (bolt pattern) on the blocks are the same, but the actual engine mounts are different between all model rb's ive seen. Rb20 is different to rb25, is different to rb26, is different to rb30 ....

Appreciate it :kewl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1413333
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...