Jump to content
SAU Community

RB30 Q's

quincy777

By quincy777,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

quincy777 Community Regular

quincy777

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Couple of things to clarify about rb30/25 conversion.

I have read threw the sticky thread, and had some great imput from a couple of guys but need to clarify different answers as I have the block and head ready and waiting.

1. Using sk's 475 hp version of conversion. standard rb30 pistons with ceramic crowns I understand are not the weak point for this power, correct? Does this include boost of upto 20psi? If I have to have forged pistons to be safe - which ones to keep compression high?

2. If standard pistons are ok for above which rings to get?

3. GTR cams/springs, for this power do I need them? or will the rb25de ones be ok upto 250-300rwkw mark.

Thanks for your help guys, just didn't want to find out mistake or waste of money after I have finished.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/
Share on other sites
StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted

consider that with a properly sized turbo (GT35/40 1.06 rear for example) you will be hitting 450rwhp at about 15 psi, judging on what other people have got with decent tuning. the pistons will be fine unless it pings. in which case forgies will last about 2 seconds longer than cast pistons before destroying themselves. the rods are what you need to worry about. standard RB30 rods prepped (stress-relieved then shotpeened) will get you to about 300rwkw reliably, but i wouldn't push them to 7000rpm too regularly, know what i mean? :P

GTR springs could be worthwhile if you are using a DE head - apparently the seating pressure can be a bit iffy on them. or just get it checked by a head specialist and see what sort of pressure they're actually getting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409395
Share on other sites
drunkenmaster Community Regular

drunkenmaster

Posted
Posted

I have just spent quite a bit of time going through the RB30 thread and also various websites and the pdf but one question which is brushed over but not directly addressed, well as far as I can see, is do all RB blocks share the same engine mount bolt pattern, that is, are all RB engine mounts fully interchangeable?

I thought I would post here rather than continue the cluttering of the RB30 thread.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409420
Share on other sites
TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

1.) using SK's 475hp example, you will also have read his main key in that result.

I think it was something like... TUNING...TUNING...TUNING... and more TUNING...

Also, he got that 475HP at the engine using an old T04 of some sort at 1 bar boost. and at 6200rpm was max power.

the low RPM and low BOOST and careful tuning is the reason that engine has over 70,000kms on it and still going.

2.) I believe he used OEM rings, bearings and gaskets.

I think that CUBES PDF also has what part numbers and brands he used. The PDF is in his signature.

3.) Cams should be fine for that figure from other's finding. The Valve springs though... I'm not sure.

Joel (CUBES) and his mate both bought R32 RB25de heads and sent them away for testing.

Joels was fine but the other one had seating issues..

I think the GTR valves will set you back about 300 - 400 dollars and that would be fine for the power you are after.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409601
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
1.) using SK's 475hp example, you will also have read his main key in that result.

I think it was something like... TUNING...TUNING...TUNING... and more TUNING...

Also, he got that 475HP at the engine using an old T04 of some sort at 1 bar boost. and at 6200rpm was max power.

the low RPM and low BOOST and careful tuning is the reason that engine has over 70,000kms on it and still going.

2.) I believe he used OEM rings, bearings and gaskets.

I think that CUBES PDF also has what part numbers and brands he used. The PDF is in his signature.

3.) Cams should be fine for that figure from other's finding. The Valve springs though... I'm not sure.

Joel (CUBES) and his mate both bought R32 RB25de heads and sent them away for testing.

Joels was fine but the other one had seating issues..

I think the GTR valves will set you back about 300 - 400 dollars and that would be fine for the power you are after.

The engine has standard Commondoor everything, rings, bearings, seals the lot.

Yep the trick is low boost, low rpm, keep the power sensible (resist the urge for that extra 20 rwkw's) and TUNING.

It is not a simply swap to stick GTR (solid follower) valve springs in a GTST (hydraulic followers). You have to modify the spring seats and the retainers and set up the seat pressure with shims. That's why we went for 1 bar, the RB25DET springs handled it easily.

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1409686
Share on other sites
quincy777 Community Regular

quincy777

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The engine has standard Commondoor everything, rings, bearings, seals the lot.

Yep the trick is low boost, low rpm, keep the power sensible (resist the urge for that extra 20 rwkw's) and TUNING.

It is not a simply swap to stick GTR (solid follower) valve springs in a GTST (hydraulic followers).  You have to modify the spring seats and the retainers and set up the seat pressure with shims.  That's why we went for 1 bar, the RB25DET springs handled it easily.

:)

Thanks for your help guys.

So keep to 1 bar of boost as max, don't rev beyond 6500 regardless of springs and all will be ok.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1410204
Share on other sites
Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted
I have just spent quite a bit of time going through the RB30 thread and also various websites and the pdf but one question which is brushed over but not directly addressed, well as far as I can see, is do all RB blocks share the same engine mount bolt pattern, that is, are all RB engine mounts fully interchangeable?

I thought I would post here rather than continue the cluttering of the RB30 thread.

Thanks guys

The mounting points (bolt pattern) on the blocks are the same, but the actual engine mounts are different between all model rb's ive seen. Rb20 is different to rb25, is different to rb26, is different to rb30 ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1410315
Share on other sites
drunkenmaster Community Regular

drunkenmaster

Posted
Posted
The mounting points (bolt pattern) on the blocks are the same, but the actual engine mounts are different between all model rb's ive seen. Rb20 is different to rb25, is different to rb26, is different to rb30 ....

Appreciate it :kewl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76992-rb30-qs/#findComment-1413333
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...