Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah i here what ya saying Sydneykid and cheers for the reply.  I was talking to the local place that i got a quote off and he said that the Apexi Power FC unit that they get in is not capable of deleting the AFM, does this sound right???

Yes it does. There are a couple of PowerFCs. The entry model one, which is the most common, must operate with an AFM (on cars that had AFMs).

They do sell Pro versions (can't remember exactly what they're called) that let you remove the AFM and run it off a MAP sensor or something, but those are harder to come by.

Or this link from Greenline Motorsports on the types of PFC.

On topic, I'd say get the PowerFC. I'm not a big fan of piggybacks unless you're sticking to a light tune application, and there are a lot more PFC tuners than EManage tuners.

Yeah i here what ya saying Sydneykid and cheers for the reply.  I was talking to the local place that i got a quote off and he said that the Apexi Power FC unit that they get in is not capable of deleting the AFM, does this sound right??? :confused:  

I was also quoted $1050 to me in Tassie with the H/C

Why the hell would you want to delete THE most effective method of determining how much air your engine is flowing at any point in time? A MAP sensor measures pressure, not air flow, the ecu then guesses (by maths) the airflow. It can NEVER be as accurate as an AFM.

I have seen Power FC equiped cars make over 1100 bhp, I have seen Power FC equiped cars do low 8's for the 1/4. Personally I have an R32GTST with a Power FC that has 420+rwkw and it runs better than it did when standard. We also have an R32GTR and an R34GTT and all of them have Power FC's.

All of those cars had AFM's.

;)

Why the hell would you want to delete THE most effective method of determining how much air your engine is flowing at any point in time?  A MAP sensor measures pressure, not air flow, the ecu then guesses (by maths) the airflow.  It can NEVER be as accurate as an AFM.

Because you like kickin' it old school, pushrod style.

One of the most common modifications to LS1s, after an exhaust, is to remove the MAF (which is apparently a bottleneck, not sure if its because its "only" 90mm or for some other reason) and reflash the ECU to run on the MAP sensor.

The way I see it, removing your AFM and swapping to a MAP sensor makes you a "V8 loving bogan" ;)

If you didn't need an AP Engineering version then its a no brainer, obviously go for the Power FC, but with a price tag of $1500 it has to make you think twice. Why not just wait till you have done all the mods you plan on and then get a remap ?

If you didn't need an AP Engineering version then its a no brainer, obviously go for the Power FC, but with a price tag of $1500 it has to make you think twice.  Why not just wait till you have done all the mods you plan on and then get a remap ?

all mods are done bar a FMIC and the ECU upgrade, so its not a matter of price, its a matter of tune ability and getting the best possible set up out of the car with the mods i have done to get the power that i am looking for.

If you didn't need an AP Engineering version then its a no brainer, obviously go for the Power FC, but with a price tag of $1500 it has to make you think twice.  Why not just wait till you have done all the mods you plan on and then get a remap ?

$1500 for a PowerFC ?

i dont think so. More to the tune of $1100 with H/C as they now come as a package set

all mods are done bar a FMIC and the ECU upgrade, so its not a matter of price, its a matter of tune ability and getting the best possible set up out of the car with the mods i have done to get the power that i am looking for.

If it's not a matter of price, and you are only concerned about tuning ability then there is no competition, go the PFC

If it's not a matter of price, and you are only concerned about tuning ability then there is no competition, go the PFC

So the MoTeC units that are the racing world's most popular "off-the-shelf" replacement ECUs aren't even worth a look-in?

If it's not a matter of price, and you are only concerned about tuning ability then there is no competition, go the PFC

well thats why i was trying to find out some info on this and see where the best place is to buy one for my R32 gts-t and what should i be looking for in the package???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...