Jump to content
SAU Community

Security measures

hungry6

By hungry6,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

hungry6 Experienced

hungry6

Posted
Posted

Ok after reading about Dan666 car got stolen, it personally touched me as this car delivered some wholesome tuolene to me.

A few menbers from know of my skyline, it's only a shitter, but I do take good care of it when I get the time, and security wise, to me it's alot more secure than an immobiliser or an alarm, or can be used as an added measure ontop of the alarm.

What I've used is a 25mm coated titanium cable lock weaving it through the mag of the front wheels and a locking wheel nut is put onto the allocated wheel of the car. If the tyre cannot be removed, the car cannot be driven if broken into. As the 25mm cable will foul the calipers and jammed, also I make sure there is no other tyre that'll fit the car sitting around my place, unless the thieves carry a spare and sit around trying to take the wheel of as the cable cannot be cut, and a tow truck cannot be used as I make an effort of backing it up against a tree.

The areas I live in is full of low life scums and there are mornings that I wake up seeing alot of disturbances around the car, but one important thing she's still there for the time being.

As for out and about the cable lock can be applied in 10 secs, not much of a

sacrifice for peace of mind.

btw I have to admit I got one door kick in after a fail theft attemp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77064-security-measures/
Share on other sites
Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

i use zip ties...

i zip tie the clutch to the gearknob... then i zip tie the steering wheel to the brake, the handbrake is zip tied to the cigarette lighter and the turbo is zip tied to the nos kit.

(starting to sound like Squizz's car eh? :) j/k)

sounds like good stuff hungry6, but i think its so fcked that we have to basically "jail" our cars to have it safe... any immobilizer/alarm can be bypassed if the thieves know what they want/doing - they wudnt be targetting imports otherwise, cos they know what some of the parts are worth!!

/end rant

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

Having a paint tin in the boot that tips over when the car moves is handy. Then you just follow the paint line. :thumbsup: Only thing is you need to remember to put the lid back on the paint tin every time you go to drive it.

Better way is leave a hungry Doberman in the car. People wont even walk on your side of the street then!

Sumo Mentor

Sumo

Posted
Posted

Hungry6: thats a good idea. I probably dont need it where I live, but I was thinking when they put down the slab in my new house I could make up a plate with reinforcement to go down into the slab and come up above. In a shed slab we layed 3 years ago we had this sort of setup for twisting truck chassis's back square.

Or I could just make up a 60 point immobiliser. Once you start breaking more electrical connections things stuff up and dont work - then you've got to go fault finding.

Cheers

Sumo

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
Hungry6: thats a good idea. I probably dont need it where I live, but I was thinking when they put down the slab in my new house I could make up a plate with reinforcement to go down into the slab and come up above. In a shed slab we layed 3 years ago we had this sort of setup for twisting truck chassis's back square.

Or I could just make up a 60 point immobiliser. Once you start breaking more electrical connections things stuff up and dont work - then you've got to go fault finding.

Cheers

Sumo

I see faults in this tho. Forgetting to unchain the car. I have seen my nextdoor neighbour do this with his boat, and his mail box. Lets just say, he got a new mailbox, AND a new boat trailer.

Also, 60 point immobiliser, while good in theory, they will get annoyed and torch your car.

You need a system to stop them from even going near it, or letting them break in easy, but have it so the car is easy, quick, and quiet to trace. As if you go after them with a police car with lots of lights, they run. If you go after them in an unmarked car or two, they get pulled up no worries.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
Fair enough, but all you need is precious time to get home for some corporal punishment

I know it sounds like im a keyboard warrior and all, I would love to get my hands on a theif...... just one on one.

Cheers

Sumo

I do belive 99.9% of us would, I remember when I was 10 and some dude stole my push bike, I was not a happy 10yo.

But being realistic (except in Dans cars case, as they just seem to be the most stupid car theives ever...) You need to make your car unatractive to even break in to. Like a club lock isnt going to stop someone who is after your stereo, likewise having a detachable face headunit wont stop someone from taking the rest of the stereo and your cds.

It is difficult when most of us have fairly desireable cars to start with, but only pros wont damage the car, common theives just get annoyed and damage stuff.

HOT_R33 Proficient

HOT_R33

Posted
Posted

Maybe one of those quick release steering wheels from japan. Not only do they look cool, there's no way they can drive it anywhere even if they manage to start the car. They'd need a tow truck to steal it.

Haro Collaborator

Haro

Posted
Posted

Yeh the quick release steering wheel is a classic ! my mate has one on his Mini Clubman, works a treat. He just pulls it off and locks it in his boot and takes the little clip thingo that is needed to lock it on in his pocket.

Funny stuff.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
Yeh the quick release steering wheel is a classic ! my mate has one on his Mini Clubman, works a treat. He just pulls it off and locks it in his boot and takes the little clip thingo that is needed to lock it on in his pocket.

Funny stuff.

Is his name Mr Bean by any chance?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • Kinkstaah
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The pinchweld is fine, even with a trolley jack, so long as you're not actually pushing on the pinchweld itself. More to the point, we shouldn't talk about lifting or supporting on the pinchweld, we should talk about using the sill "jacking points", which just happen to be adjacent to the pinchweld. I just have dense rubber blocks with grooves in them for each of the chassis stands and the trolley jack, that I use at the sill jacking points if/when I have to lift/support there. They put all the load onto the steel pad of the jacking point and not the pinchweld. As intended.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Makes sense.  I would do something different if I felt like there was a better option. Generally the only other area I'm happy to jack on is where I want to put the stand. The pinch weld is not an option for me for either the jack or stands, so very limited options overall.  Plus never having had an issue with doing this, has kinda reinforced in my mind that it's fine. I'd do it on any car without a second thought these days lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...