Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 345
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

']what would the top secret ones go for?

This is the first set i've seen advertised on auction.

It'd be safe to assume they'd be similarly priced to most other TE37's of the same size.

$2.7 - $3k mark.

I'll edit the post when we get closer to the closing day of auction.

Cheers.

TBee,

yes they are looking pretty cheap at the moment, lets not forget there is 8 hours to go.

secondly, they have no met their reserve price.

they will fit the R32 GTR ;)

they may be sitting on 80,000yen right now.

estimating 140,000Yen close.

from what i know, the R33 GT-R is the heaviest of them all. i didnt think they were any wider than the R34. Perhaps someone on here can enlighten me also.

The maximum width rim ive limited on here has been 10" due to those clearance issues.

Any wider and ive been suggesting flaring/lipping ..etc.

May have to do some digging around myself also.




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...