Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I am writing this up in order to help some people out there that don't want to get ripped off getting their turbo timer installed by an auto elec.

Now, firstly the turbo timer I installed was a HKS type 1 turbo timer, so some slight differances may occour :).

Things You will need :

Turbo Timer Wiring harness (best not to chop your loom if you can help it)

Wire strippers (You will need to strip 0.75mm wire)

wire connectors.

Side cutters

wire crimpers

Phillips Head screw driver

shifter or small socket set

Black electrical tape.

Pateince, and care !!

Now firstly you will have to remove the steering column surround, as stated in other guides on here. Now look at the back of the key barrel, there will be a 6 pin plug at the back of it, now simply unplug it, and plug the wires into the harness u have, and plug it back into the key barrel. Now before continuing, i made sure i had power and ignition still. So give it a try.

Now tidy up all the cables and make them neat under the dash. Plug the wiring harness into the turbo timer unit iteself.

Now, connect the earth to any metal surface. To know that its working have the ignition on, the plug connected into the turbo timer, and once u earth it. It should power up. Connect it.

( i installed mine in the ashtray so i ran my earth wire to the screws holding the gearbox boot down. Right next to my stereo one :).

Now, for the handbrake wire. This is where the fun starts.

take apart the gearbox surround, and continue to undo the centre console and completely remove so you can see the parking brake wire. Its on a switch. Now i unplugged this and soldered it onto the plug itself. But you can connect it closer to the dash simply by following the correct wire.

Now, get the ecu out, which for me (r33 gts-t) was in the passenger kick panel. Now i disconnected the battery before continuing from here on in. take the kick panel off, and undo the bolts holding the ecu in position. Now you can unplug the wires from the ecu so you have a little bit more movement (there isnt much). Follow the guide, cut the correct wires, taking lots of care that you are actually counting the plugs in the unit and not the amount of wires.

Say the diagram says the bottom row, 4th from the end.

You may have ||.| (| - indicates wire, . indicating now wire) The wire on the left will be the one to cut. I nearly got caught out this way so just take your time and care. Connect all the wires using the crimpers and connectors you had, neaten up all the wires as you see fit. Put everything back together again and enjoy your new fully connected turbo timer :D

Please download these files before continuing.

Ecu

Ecu plugs

Any questions please don't hesitate to ask :D

Best of luck !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77087-installing-a-turbo-timer/
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 11 months later...
Has anyone installed an Apexi Auto Timer with A/F rario,O2 sensor voltage

etc.?

Did you get a "Specific Vehicle Harness" with it, or did you make it yourself?

No i havn't installed one but i have purchased one and do you have to buy the vehicle specific harness?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe when they added coolant to cool the turbo it negated the need for turbo timers as water continues to flow even when the engine is shut off I forget the actual terminology, I'll just say the coolant "percolates" through the turbo which stops the oil cooking itself to death  Well....that's how I see it, as all the plant at work that has coolant lines to the turbo can be shut down straight away, whereas the older plant with only oil feed to the turbo you need to idle it for a few minutes
    • What is the current snail?
    • Never an issue with boost control. No weird boost issues pre throttle at partial throttle like you're suggesting. It worked.   As for all the turbo damage claims, they all were started by aftermarket BOV companies. At least turbo timer companies had SOME truth about them, except people failed to realise that except for in extreme circumstances, that small amount of driving you do to park/ through pit lane etc, is enough to not have a need for a turbo timer.
    • I tell people all the time this stuff runs on a 2 MHz 8-bit MCU. The math is a bit arcane, they do a lot to get around their limited resolution and so on but it works great as-shipped. So if an 80 to 160 MHz modern 32-bit MCU can't make it work you've really screwed something up badly. Your average graphing calculator is faster these days, god forbid we start talking about what's hiding in vapes or some stupid internet-connected "smart appliance".  I suspect the lore about off-throttle surge damaging turbos must be very, very old if it was ever true. I still don't think off throttle surge is good for turbos because you're rapidly having air going in and out of the turbo on top of rapid loss in shaft speed which presumably does impart some kind of unusual load on the rotating assembly. As for the recirculating valve, I believe Nissan actually in a press slide deck of some kind explained for the RZ34 they found it improved response. Prior to that they kept the throttle cracked open instead which causes rev hang and because the throttle/engine is a substantial restriction a ton of the energy in the air stream is lost just to pumping past it. Recirculating helps reduce energy loss by bringing the intake side of the compressor up in pressure so it's not working as hard to pull air in. In DCT cars where they can slam gears I believe Porsche hangs the throttle wide open with no fuel injection to keep turbo RPMs as high as possible during the shift. As for running post-throttle boost source, I would be concerned that at partial throttle on boost you would have driveability issues. It would be constantly trying to run crazy amounts of boost before the throttle to compensate for the throttling effect. Maybe with a much more sophisticated boost control setup you could activate a solenoid that goes from a conventional 3-port setup to something that allows the wastegates to see full vacuum in that specific case? 
    • Did you clean everything out? Take all intercooler piping off, empty the intercooler of oil, clean the exhaust out, etc? Intercoolers make great catch cans... Which makes them less useful for intercooling... But very worth cleaning out, along with all adjoining piping.
×
×
  • Create New...