Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

recently got my auto changed to manual, as some of you know

i recently noticed that my clutch pedal is engagin right at the end ( nearly when my foot is off the pedal) .

When i accelerate the engine revvs higher then what it should be doin, and only slowly increases speed. ( The only explanation i see is that the clutch is slipping a bit, but find it hard to find why that is, as its a brand new heavy duty clutch)

Where as from when i got it installed the clutch was engagin right near the floor.

the clutch slave cylinder, was weeping a dribble but was replaced with a 200b one, as there the same.

i was insured the the clutch is a brand new heavy duty clutch,

it has a machined flywheel, and a r33 gearbox.

i have been driving around with the manual for two weeks now, and only started doing this now.

I do know that changing between gears there is no crunching of gears AT ALL.

Would there be a chance of the clutch slave cylinder when installed, it wasnt bled properly?

Definatley the clutch?

Or somethin goin on with the pedal?

Whateva it is i wouldnt have a clue.

Also to let ya know every mod i have had done to the car i have had problems and gettin sick of the Shit. Another thing payin good money, hopefully knowing that it will be done correctly and a quality professional job.

Havin this happen a fair few times leaves me to the fella upstairs doesnt like me .

Is there anyone that you know of that are located in brisbane i can take it too that do a quality job, to get it checked and fixed.

Im gettin the car dyno tuned at F.I.S.T on the 30th , The reason im takin it too these guys are ,

they are close too me

havent been there b4 and seen some of the cars they have helped with

have a dyno dynamics dyno

125 bucks an hour which i thought was reasonable

I will see if the fella that did the conversion can have a look, but just seein if any of you guys have had this happen and know what it is. BUT i didnt want to as i have been goin back and forth for different problems a couple of times.

Any help will be much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77409-manual-gearbox-issues/
Share on other sites

definatly sounds like clutch slip.

did they bleed the clutch system properly?? did they clean the clutch surfaces before and during install??? are all components in the clutch brand new??? were the rear main and gbox input seal replaced??

cheers

Linton

When i accelerate the engine revvs higher then what it should be doin, and only slowly increases speed. ( The only explanation i see is that the clutch is slipping a bit, but find it hard to find why that is, as its a brand new heavy duty clutch)

i would be goin back telling them to take it out and check it cause well that sounds like a stock clutch...

'Generally' depending on the setup if the system hasn't been bled properly the clutch will crunch between gears and it will not disengage properly.

What did the gearbox come out of? Series 1 or Series 2 R33?

Reason being is the Series 1 are the conventional Push type clutch where as the Series 2 are a pull type.

With the push type it is IMPOSSIBLE for the clutch to slip due to a poorly bled system.

Series 2, I am unsure exactly how it operates.

I do however highly doubt your clutch slip issue is caused by air in the system.

The clutch is probably stuffed. AND OR you have a gearbox leak causing the clutch to burn and slip.

hey guys

my problem has been fixed, but who knows if it will stay like that.

I took the car over to the fella that did the conversion,

there was no free travel at all in the clutch pedal, and he adjusted it and check the slave cylinder.

as i didnt know, if it wasnt bled properly it would of been the opposite and crunched gears through changes.

So the slave cylinder was right, i think he did say that there was a bit of pressure on the clutch and loosened and adjusted it.

Theres no leakage from the gearbox at all, same with the slave cylinder.

Gear changes are smooth as and there is no slippage of the clutch at all NOW.

gettin it tune at fist on the 30th so hopefully everythings sweet as

Thanks for ya guys advice and help .

  • 2 weeks later...

the problem is back again, its happened another time after my last post

and was adjusted again, but now its back

the other time was it was not even engagin and was right on the floor

heaps of free travel it was adjusted then now,

just after i got it dynoed it had no free travel at all and engagin an inch from lettin my foot off the pedal

seriously is pissin me off and not likin it, cause i havent even got the chance to go for a good run in it yet , and has been 4 weeks.

if anyone that could look at it for is or some advice cause its streesin me out.

some of the things i have been thinkin that it mite be is the slave cylinder being a 200b one.

wasnt bled properly being that there is still air floatin round in the pipes .

and keeps adjustin itself.

thas all i can think of and make sure this is looked at this weekend .

Thanks

if the slave is the only thing changed since it started stuffing up then its that but if not than its the adjustment under the dash on the pedal as there is a threaded rod that u turn and wind the pedal towards the floor so it then engages closer to the floor and can come further up if u get my drift...

bit hard to explain, but shit i had my gearbox (gtr 4wd heavy ****er) in and out at least 8 times thinking it was the clutch when it was actually the pivot arm on the gearbox was in the wrong spot and the pedal needed adjustment

hope u get something useful outta that :P

cheers

Brad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...