Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alan, thats a difficult question when we know nothing about your car or its modifications. These intercoolers are a bar and plate design 600 x 300 x 76mm

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey  

 nice price... i want to buy a kit for my r33 series 1

No problem, please email [email protected] or call us on (02) 9545 0532 to place your order.

Thanks

Steve

Anyone that can help....

Just deciding between Type 1 and Type 2.. I dont care at all about the looks, just after the performance and installation ease.. I have a r33 series 2 front bar, will they both fit in snug? with out too much cutting. Also, it looks like the type 2 has bigger end tanks, does this equal a better performing intercooler?

Cheers...

Hi,

I was considering buying one of these kits however I've noticed that on my R33 (S2 Sedan) I've got a washer bottle located where you would normally cut the 3"hole (on the drivers side). So the question is, will this kit fit?

Hi Bunky - We havent fitted one of these kits to a 31 so I cant give you a definate answer.

We have an SAU forum special for the coolers themselves at $175 delivered otherwise.

Steve

thats awesome... how long will this be going for? ie. my car probably wont get here for 2 months.

and will u have the blue piping for the R32 kit??

Hi Steve

Q1 Do these kits bolt straigt up or do you need extra brackets and holes?

Q2 Has anyone got a pick of one of these fitted before the front spoiler is fitted back on.

Can you PM me the details of total cost for Type 2 R33 Kit

delivered to Bunbury WA.

Instructions on how to pay would be good thanks

  • 1 month later...

More stock just arrived.

Note: The Type 1 kits now include chrome piping rather than blue piping.

Regards,

Steve

Plenty of stock available, first post has been updated.

Cheers,

Steve

Hi,

I was considering buying one of these kits however I've noticed that on my R33 (S2 Sedan) I've got a washer bottle located where you would normally cut the 3"hole (on the drivers side). So the question is, will this kit fit?

Has this question been answered yet? Some pics or copy of fitting instructions would be great, if possible.

Peter

Hi Peter, the cooler pipe runs through the inner guard underneath the washer bottle.

A 3 inch hole will need to be cut to accomodate this in the inner gaurd under where the washer bottle is sitting.

The image below shows what I am referring to, though in an R34 the battery sits where the washer bottle would in an R33.

coolerpipeguard.jpg

Please let me know if you have any further questions

Cheers,

Steve

Hey Steve, the type 1 and type 2 kits one looks like it has larger end tanks? Any reason why? Whats better?

Also the ones you have for $175 are they the smaller end tanks or larger ones?

Hi Doodz, the type 2 are simply a trust style intercooler with a slightly different shaped end tank and polished piping whereas he type 1 kits use the same cooler as the $175 universal units and chrome plated piping.

I hope this clarifies.

Cheers,

Steve

Is there any chance of getting the type 2 cool just by itself?

This shouldnt be a problem. Give us a call to discuss - (02) 9545 0532

Cheers,

Steve

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...