Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi again.

I have devised my tyre offset calculator.

I want to know if a 9.5 inch wide +12 wheel will fit (not stick out or foul suspension).

Previously Sydneykid has said that the race car R32 GTR runs 8 inch wide, +35 rims with a 40mm spacer. This would be equivalent to a 8 inch wide rim with a -5mm offset. See here

Plugging this stuff into my calculator, we get:

8 inch wide, -5mm offset:

distance to inner edge of rim 9.66cm

distance to outer edge of rim 10.66cm

9.0 inch wide, +30mm offset (std R34GTR offset):

distance to inner edge of rim 14.43cm

distance to outer edge of rim 8.43cm

9.5 inch wide, +12mm offset:

distance to inner edge of rim 13.265cm

distance to outer edge of rim 10.865cm

9.5 inch wide, +22mm offset:

distance to inner edge of rim 14.265cm

distance to outer edge of rim 9.865cm

What I'm asking is

1. does anyone run volks in 18x9.5 +12 on their R32GTR and does it foul inside or outside at all using say a 265/30/18 (or is this a R33 / R34 GTR offset)

2. does anyone run volks on 18x9.5 +22 on their R32GTR and does it foul either inside or outside.

Cheers for the help, want to know before I shell out on rims.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78064-r32-gtr-offset-again-sk-input/
Share on other sites

Firstly, do not own R32 GTR but have fitted similar sized wheels several times.

The latest wheels I have test fitted to R32 GTR were 18 x 10 (+12) - only half an inch wider than the 18 x 9.5 (+12) you are referring to.

The end result was they stuck out from the guards ~10mm - therefore, your 18 x 9.5 (+12) will stick out from the guards ~4mm (absolutely perfect in my eyes!).

There will be NO internal clearance issues. I know this 1. from experience and 2. from simple measurements - compare the internal differences betweeen BNR34 wheels (which are known to fit by everyone - I have also fitted these) and the 18 x 9.5 (+12)... BNR34 wheels sit ~12mm further in towards the suspension than your proposed 18 x 9.5 (+12).

I would be inclined to run 245/40/18 if purchasing these 18 x 9.5(+12) for ease of fitting.

Secondly, simple calculations tell us that an 18 x 9.5 (+22) will sit in 10mm externally and internally when compared with the 18 x 9.5 (+12). Therefore, just marginally inside the guards and almost the same internally when compared with BNR34 wheels (see above). I can't comment on tyre selection in this instance.

Also, can you please provide a link to these offset calculators you use. There seems to be a difference between punching some numbers in and reality.

Cheers,

Jeff.

Thanks Jeff.

The 'calculator' is a simple spreadsheet that I wrote some formulas in. I'm pretty sure they are correct, based on my understanding of offsets, but if my understanding is wrong, then maybe the sheet doesn't tell the story.

It's attached if you're interested.

***note i had to change the extension to ".pdf" in order to be able to upload it. To use it, save as, and change the file extension to ".xls"***

cheers, Marcus

Also, can you please provide a link to these offset calculators you use. There seems to be a difference between punching some numbers in and reality.

Marcus,

Couldn't open the attachment - sorry if I sounded a little harsh re: your calculator - not meant in that way!

Your understanding of offsets I'm sure is sound, and nowadays most people have a decent grasp on the subject. However, one thing most people don't realise is...

...a 9 inch rim is not 9 inches wide!

If you actually measure the width of a "9 inch rim" (or any rim for that matter) - you will notice it is actually ~10 inches wide. A good rule of thumb is to add 1 inch to the width of a rim (12.7mm inside and outside) to calculate the offset. Your results (whilst not being 100% accurate) will be within a couple of mm's.

(I will locate some pics and post them for a visual explanation)

I am by no means an expert, but dealing with these issues every other day has allowed me some level of competence.

Bottom line is the 18 x 9.5 (+12) will stick out a touch (my preference) and the 18 x 9.5 (+22) will be a pretty snug fit.

Cheers,

Jeff.

ok marcus I took some measurements of my R32 GTR with the R34 GTR wheels...

on the rear which you asked me to measure, I found that it was about 22mm from rim edge to furthest part of the guard (i.e. the centre looking down....)

here are some pics to help with a tape measure as a guide....

oh and yes car was just washed :rofl: rusty discs!! and no I didnt gutter wheels.... previous japanese dude thrashed these wheels on some circuit.... tyres are totalled!

anyhow I hope this helps you out.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
×
×
  • Create New...