Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is confusing the hell outta me :confused:

Ive looked at the firewall on my skyline and there doesn't seem to be anywhere to run some cable through....do I have to drill a new whole?

I don't really wanna drill a new whole incase there is something behind the sopt I drill and I puncture something....

I need to run some 4 gauge cable from my battery under the bonnet all the way to the boot, I have already run all other cables to amps, deck, speakers etc...now it just needs POWA :uh-huh:

........help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78238-running-cable-through-r32-firewall/
Share on other sites

there are some rubber/foam grommetsthe go thru if your looking from the inside they are right up underneath the dash easier to get to them from the engine bay they are kind of triangular in shape just slip youe wire through there. if you still cant find it try tracing your other wires in the engine bay through the firewall and slipping it along side them. but there is definitly a grommet there that you can remove to feed it through

What you need to do is

1. In the car on the drivers side take of the kick panel (right foot side when sitting in the car) with this off you should be able to see the firewall and in the corner a large rubber grommet.

2. Jack the car up, front driver’s side wheel, take the wheel off. once the wheel is off you need to remove the plastic cover in the wheel arch. don’t take it all off as there are like 500 screws just what is nessacery to pull part of it down. ps. you might want to put some car stands to hold the car up instead of leaving the car on the jack

3. standing at the side of the car where you took the wheel off take the power cable and push it through the guard there should be an opening near brake booster side of the guard (back end of the guard behind the strut tower) just feel around under the guard to find the opening. once you have found the opening, push it through the cable should know be in the wheel arc where you pulled the wheel cover down. put your hand up there and find the cable and then push the cable trough the grommet you should be able to feel it at the back of the guard

4. the cable should now be inside the car.

if you have any probs i can pm you my number and a can talk you through it

if you need any pics i can get you some

Good luck

I found this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...hrough+firewall

describing pretty much what mr 32 described, thanks all, will see if I can find that hole....is it easy to do with the wheel on?

you cant do it with the wheel on as you cant take the inner plastic wheel arc cover off. if anything it is easyer with the wheel off

There is no need to go under the car or wheel arch at all. The easiest way to run cables in the R32 is down the drivers side from inside the engine bay.

There is a triangular shaped grommet in the inner guard behind the shocktower beside the brake booster.

When you remove the triangular grommet you will see a large round grommet in the firewall

directly behind it. From inside the car this grommet is located high above the accelerater pedal.

Remove the driver's kickpanel for better access.

Poke a screwdriver through the round grommet, from inside the car, into the engine bay far enough so that you can use electrical tape to tie the cable to the tip of the screwdriver.

If the cable is thick a bit of rubber grease will help to ease the screwdriver and cable back through the grommet.

Feed enough cable through to reach the amp and run the cable under the edge of the carpet where the sill meets the floorpan.

where would that cable some out in the engine bay?, under the brake booster?, I can't see any grommet from the top of the booster!, unless I am just blind

hmmm. now thats my problem...I already have speaker cable, remote wire cable and 2 RCA's running down the drivers side, so I am gunna go over the back of the dash and run it along the passengers side....6m should get that done right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...