Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Best Gearbox OIL

neo32
 Share

Recommended Posts

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

Ok. I've done a bit of research in to this of late.

Whats the box doing? If its 100% like brand new, just put the oil nissan recomends in there.

If it is crunching however, then go for a thinner oil, or a 'technically' thinner oil.

The shockproof stuff is technically thinner. The lightweight being somewhere between a normal thin oil, and autobox oil. The superlight weight is the equivlant to autobox oil. By putting a thinner oil in it frees everything up a bit more. This is why people say it would feel like a new box, as the is so damn bloody thin. Ditto (or so I have been told) with racing, they will occasionally use a thinner oil so they can change gears faster.

If you dont want to spend $150 or whatever it is for the redline stuff in the HOPE that it works. Do what Im going to do, put auto oil in, if that works then the redline stuff should to.

But yeah, you know for sure the box is good, no need for fancy stuff.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
Redline Shockproof Lightweight is thick as buggery.

If you have it handy, get out the Redline oil manual thing. It might be thick but because of all the additives in it, its effectivly a lot thinner. It even says so in their book. The superlight weight it says something along the lines of 'equvielent of auto transmition oil/fuild). Id take a guess and say some of that additive stuff would have the same effect, but maybe not as good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • The Bogan
      SAU NSW - R U OK? Southern Highlands Cruise

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...