Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Installed the Poncams on the weekend.. all went in fairly smooth.

Took it for a good 1hr drive and on the way back after reving to 7000 rpm in 2nd as we came to a traffic lightm, car stalled and would not idle anymore...

At first i thought a cooler pipe popped off but after close inspection its all in correctly.

Question is what is wrong with it?

Symptoms:

Car starts after having to tap accelerator but does not idle.

Will hold revs above 2000rpm if accelerator held but any lower and it stalls

Sounds as if its under a load under 2000rpm

Drives ok above 2000rpm

Timing is ~ 30deg at around 1600rpm.

Tried moving CAS without any improvement...

Timming Belt seems a little loose, moving belt up & down between the cam gear and the tensioner theres about 1cm play.

Could it have skipped a tooth???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78542-has-it-skipped-a-tooth/
Share on other sites

Easiest check will be to remove the top timing cover and rotate the engine so it is sitting with cylinder one at TDC (0 on your crank timing mark) The cam gears should have the timing mark line up with a pair of marks on the back of the cam cover (sounds a bit vague but you'll see what i mean).

It sounds like your belt is a bit loose too so you'll probably have to tension it up while you're there.

when put the belt on did you rotate the engine and then recheck the belt. 1cm of play?? that sounds very excessive and very well could have skipped a tooth or number of teeth. was it idling when you put them in?? has it only happened when you revved it out?

line the marks up and see what they look like

cheers

Linton

thats where i F%^$ up cos i didnt turn the motor, only did the tensioner up....

I drove it for about an hour and it was fine, until one big squirt in 2nd to 7000rpm...

is there a way of knowing if i line the crank pulley to TDC without the back cam gear plate?

If your belt is a new genuine one it will have marks on it that line up against the cam gears.

Even if it's a bit old you should still be able to see the marks if you look closely.

I dont know for certain that a non genuine belt will have the marks.

It only matches up to the marks on the belt on installation, after the motor has turned it prolly doesnt return to that position for another 345235 turns....

no back plate as in pic

About 4 turns and the marks on the belt line up on mine.:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...