Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by kabab

Gues what.......

He sold the rotor !!!!

As for the matter at hand REV's efforts have proven its possible, we just need to see it happen with a few other similar spec'd R33's to know its not a freak car.

Well I'll be damned, he sold it! It was just starting to get interesting too.

Remember though REV's car still has a few *important* minor mod's.

  • Exhaust
  • Turbosmart bleed valve - minor but a mod none the less :P
  • Upgrade clutch & light flywheel combo
  • S-AFC II - dunno if this contributed to xtra power for his 13.4 run or not? REV?

Lightflywheel improve's you acceleration through 1st and second especially.

Which is very important. :P

Had a little squirt with a Maloo 255LS1 Manual Last years model Ute the other morning.

It was actually slower much slower than I expected. Out accelerated even in high rev's through third. Their second gear is also a little slow. They launch so damn well though he grabbed 1/2 a car length in front then by second i was already side by side, third i was sailing past.

He started it, and was 40+. He drove like a boy racer.

Originally posted by 2fardown

Yes you are right...I run Simex 225's and they grip like mad.

I thought that Simex [tyres] were ok and not that cheap :confused: Mine are the 235 / 45 variety on stock 17x7.5 wheels...The model number is sm8200 i think.

Would b nice to find out about this slicks / elf 33 drag time!

I run 2x 225 50' 16's Simex on the front, the rears at the moment are Baraums which were $149 each but are really chirpy tyres and don't grip. I'm waiting for them to die.

The Simex tyres were $138 each which is pretty cheap compared to the Bridgestone, Yoko' etc price of $200+

13.4 is a 'can do' with some important mods, you won't get the stockie going like that un-fortunately cause of the exhaust if nothing else.

My 205's , even tho simex, are way under sized for road rubber let alone the drags.

Didn't do a thing with the s-afc II except watch the pretty blue screen for 'knocking'. I only installed it the night before and since the instructions are all in jap i was not prepared to touch the A/F settings, I'll leave it for the dyno some time in the next month.

Note: * that I did a bunch of 13.5's and a 13.6 that night, it's no fluke.

* Simex (read cheap'o) 205's, no octane booster , stock ecu , stock intercooler, 10psi.

[quote[i think mid 13's are possible may be a 13.4 babs is on the mark you dont need a bigger cooler unless you are fitting a bigger turbo in reality merli made reasoanble power witha stock cooler.

meggala

nice to see I"m not talking sh1t

great effort rev210 with some tuning and boost watch the times tumble also dont forget the motorplex is one of the fastest drag strips in the southern hemishpere. ithere is at least a .3 sec advantage there

meggala

  • 3 months later...
Originally posted by kabab

Actually i remember andrew trap speeds where higher then mine around 98mph ???

Your forgetting the ELF :( thats bound to give you abit more power..

I guess there is only one way to find out :)

By low 13's i mean 13.3 - 13.0

just reading thru old threads, can someone plz explain to me exactly how elf or anyother fuel/oct booster can make any difference speed wise at all in a standard car? how are you going to advance the timing kabab?

Many people think that using high octane fuel will automatically give a large or significant power increase. This is not neccessarily true. High octane fuel has a slower flame front propagation during combustion which helps prevent knock when used in high compression engines. Since stock Jap engines are designed to run on 103 octane petrol they will not have high enough combustion pressures or temperatures to take full advantage of a 124 octane fuel. In fact using too high an octane fuel can actually reduce power because the fuel burns too slowly to produce peak combustion pressure high in the power stroke. To get back on thread I doubt that using Elf racing fuel would give much of a boost to a stock engine. So getting into 13's with a stocker on Elf is unlikely.

You keep talking about this Elf stuff as if its gonna turn a stock RB25 into a huge beast!

And what your suggesting, tuning the car to run on elf, is not something that youd do just for one run. Whats the point in saying i did 13.x on elf, when your cars not tuned for it for daily use? And even if you tuned it, without a programmable computer you cant do a whole lot to "optimise it".

And anyway, its my understanding that a higher octane fuel protects against detonation. It burns slower, which is why you can up the timing to get a bit more power. But the real gain would be seen by upping the BOOST, which your not gonna do coz then it wont be stock.

And yeah, what BigAl said!

Well IMO doing stuff like fitting <18psi Nitto 555R drag tyres and all the little tricks like removing the spacespacer and stuff is kinda cheating a bit.

It's the same as dyno runs. I'm sure some of you use octane booster and up the boost but is it all kosher that way?

To run that magic 13.4 is a far bit of work in itself and it almosts turns the car into 'not a daily driver'.

T.

Sold a Computer case to a bloke today that had a TF Cortina.

Pretty wild cam to say the least. You don't even year V8's idling the way this thing idled.

Sounded absolutly awesome. Especially for a six.

Apparently he claims he ran a 13.2 1/4 with sticky tyres on the rear.

Apparently it makes power to 6000rpm which is pretty good considering the standard 250 six's peak power is at 3700rpm.

Still in Awe with the sound of the think actually.

Notice I said a lot of Apparentlys :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...