Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

It's the resistor pack for your injectors. Its there to change from high impedence to low impedence. If any wires are shaved, try repairing it. This unit can be removed for repair, but for now lets try fixing the problem you have now.

Check No.1 coil very carfully - something might be there

Photo's are there now.........

i already got a new set right here! i just bought some extra ones last time i changed'em,

but they are the same ones ( NGK BCP7E-11 )

also, is it ok if i kept the gap as it is? coz i never gaped one b4, and if i try and end up breaking one am going to be a plug short! hehe!

btw, i couldnt thank you enugh for ur time. uve been a big help

i already got a new set right here! i just bought some extra ones last time i changed'em,

but they are the same ones ( NGK BCP7E-11 )

also, is it ok if i kept the gap as it is? coz i never gaped one b4, and if i try and end up breaking one am going to be a plug short! hehe!

btw, i couldnt thank you enugh for ur time. uve been a big help

No problem, thats one of the reasons why we are all here, share, talk & help.

Your plugs must be gapped down, its not hard it you have a filler guage. I can guide you through it if you like.

been reading a few threads, and i found this one:

 

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ghlight=misfire

 

almost the exact semptoms. i realy hope its not a gasket

OK, I have read this post. This is true - if your car runs very rich, it will misfire but if you replace the spark plugs - as I have suggested - it will run fine for a while until it misfires again but we at least know where to start looking.

In any problem solving, process of elimination is your friend. We have to check what works to find out what does not.

P.S. Gapping plugs with even a good Mallet, hammer, brick is a health hazard....... only qualified professional machanical engineer technican should use these devices.

1.jpg  

is this what your talking about? coz i found one! loool

Thats the one!!!! Even people like you and me can use this, no qualificians necessary.

1. find 0.6 filler guage.

2. on something soild like a metal bench, tap the spark plug with just enough force to shorten the gap.

3. Contine doing this & check with the filler guage.

4. If you over do it just use the filler guage or something else to very slightly open it up.

5. The filler guage should slide in without moving about or move very slightly.

In your situation because you have 1.1mm gapped plugs, measure from the tip of the spark plugs, they have to be bent a far bit - this is why the BKR6E has a factory setting of 0.8mm gap, better and easier to gap to .6 or .7. Another thing, the 6 is a hotter plug, does not foul as easy as the 7 plug range.

Thats the one!!!! Even people like you and me can use this, no qualificians necessary.

1. find 0.6 filler guage.

2. on something soild like a metal bench, tap the spark plug with just enough force to shorten the gap.

3. Contine doing this & check with the filler guage.

4. If you over do it just use the filler guage or something else to very slightly open it up.

5. The filler guage should slide in without moving about or move very slightly.

In your situation because you have 1.1mm gapped plugs, measure from the tip of the spark plugs, they have to be bent a far bit - this is why the BKR6E has a factory setting of 0.8mm gap, better and easier to gap to .6 or .7. Another thing, the 6 is a hotter plug, does not foul as easy as the 7 plug range.

0.6 is probably a touch to small, the gaps on modded GTR's i've heard used are usually 0.65mm-0.8mm... Not sure about 0.6mm but can't imagine it making a huge difference either way - why not aim for the middle of that - say 0.7mm?

oops sorry, I meant 0.7 as your other spark plugs were gaped at these & 0.7 is a good gap to keep. Mine are at 0.6 but I have alot more boost & fuel to iginite.

Sorry about the confusion

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
    • That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope! 
×
×
  • Create New...