Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am looking at an JUN oil pump for use in an R33 GTR and have read that JUN also recommends using their crank/oil pump collar in conjunction with this pump on "earlier" GTR's.

Can anyone confirm if the JUN pump can be used on its own or if the additional purchase of the matching collar is essential for fitting in an R33?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79168-jun-oil-pump-upgrade-on-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Nick, the collar is needed to extend the drive flats for the oil pump in early RB26 engines (R32 I believe this is limited to). I've seen the wear marks on the pump drive and understand the concerns. Yours should be good.

Remember the RB26 is pretty much a complete engine out to do the oil pump. What else are you planning? ;)

Why change the pump? are you having pressure problems?

Thanks Geoff ;)

Just preparing my shopping list so to speak :( When the time comes the JUN or Trust pumps look to be the preferred option rather than an N1.

I did notice Trust rate their oil pump only marginally higher than the JUN equivilent

I wouldnt mind hearing from someone who is running the Trust pump as well

I bought a pump that was only used for mock up of the engine from a guy, but when I received it (all the way from Japan) the rear cover has GREX on it.

I'm assuming this is made by the same mold because I took it apart and compared it to another pump that had JUN on the back cover.

Is there one main Co. making these uprated pumps, then sourcing them out for re badging?

Is my pump with GREX really a Greddy or Trust pump??

PLEASE ADVISE

thanks

joel

Trust and Jun use a modified Nissan oilpump casting, where the HKS/Nismo have the same aftermarket casting. I think they are the same pump, or are made by the same foundry? The Tomei one features the largest oilpump gears in the universe, again in a custom case. All of them use their own oilpump gears, with wider, larger teef. Also features the pressure relief outside the case, so you can adjust the pressure externally without taking the car to pieces. Although there are other aftermarket devices you can adapt to do that without paying through the nose for a Tomei pump.

Although you pay for the difference, I think GTR-700 has shown the Jun pump capable of decent longevity and flow, so I'm not sure it's necessary to go further.

0042_01lo.jpg This one has the fitting welded to the pump....

This is why I like the Trust oil pump over the regular castings of the oem and N-1 pump.

I'm making up a external pick up into a custom alum oil pan to go on my rb26 powered Z car.

The standard casting oil pump does not provide enough "meat" for a tapped fitting to be used. The custom pan is needed for the rear sump placement in the Zed....

Oil_pump_side_feed_mod.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...