Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Very busy weekend, just installed an r33 sytle FMIC in my er34. All i can say is that after alot of cutting and grinding it fits. I didn't take any shots during the mod, since i was busy all weekend and didn't even think about taking any. However i will get some shots next weekend since the front bumper has to come off so i can remount and fit the wiper watertank (thats one thing r34s have to modify).

Some of the biggest time consuming things of the weekend. (r34 specific)

* The r34 bonnet had to be cut in order to close - the overcam pipe needs to be high and more to the front to clear the radiator fan; by cutting out some of the bonnet support structure i was able to get a 0.1cm clearence :P (atleast it closes, however there will still be rubbing from the soft bonnet padding.

* The wiper water tank needs to be moved; haven't figured that out yet so im currently driving without one. Either it needs to be repoistioned else where or, what i think might work, rotate it 90 degrees so its facing forward and construt support brackets.

* For autos, that sensor in front of the trans cooler needs to be flipped inward or your IC will hit it.

Anyone attempting to do this, allow a full weekend since it took me 9-5 sat and sun of full time work (no lunch breaks) to get this done, so allow plently of time if you need to drive the car monday. This morning the car drove well, no noticable turbo lag; fitted a greddy pod filter at the same so all i can hear now in the cabin is the turbo whine - totally cancealling out the BOV, sounds awesome though.

:boinkcar:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79273-r33-style-fmic-in-r34/
Share on other sites

the blitz kit must be different, does the blitz kit run a pipe behind the IC to other side?; by r33 style i mean that the intake pipe went up and over the cam cover and radiator fan not down into the stock holes. Therefore in order to get clearance some of the supports needed to be 'removed' and a hole cut down in the subframe to bring it around into the area where the wiper tank is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...