Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just a thought..........If the smoke dosn't appear until you change from 2nd to 3rd is it possible the vacuum created through the PCV when you shut the throttle is sucking excess oil (due to no external drain) into the space above the baffles. But instead of actually sucking it through the PCV, it is blown out the breathers?

can you explain this a bit more in dummy terms or via PM :rant:

I dont have any PCV valve as far as i know... Greddy plenum..

this pic shows the extent of my breathers pretty much. I have circled where the oil comes out... Plumbing this into a catch can will still see oil coming out of these as far as i know??

cam.jpg

Those need to be plumbed into a catch can, if they are exposed you will get oil and other crap out of them under big boost.

If you have excessive amount of oil coming out under low boost pressure, you would have excessive blowby from the combustion chamber.

Rings, clearances worn/wrong etc etc

2 hoses come off them... onto the ground..

but thats how it got my car back, exposed.

Either way it shows the extent of my PCV valve situation?

Im sittin home now cuz im too worried to go out driving and booting it :rant:

The PCV valve is built into the fitting on the left. It is just a 1-way valve. A hose runs from this to the standard plenum. The theory is when the engine is in vacuum the valve opens and crankcase vapours get sucked back into the plenum. Not good from a performance perspective. When on boost, the valve shuts and if you have excessive blow-by the only way the vapours can escape is via the breathers on top of the cam covers.

I would definately be plumbing the external oil drain in. I'm sure Nissan have it there for a reason. That was my thinking anyway.

Put a catch can on and if heaps of oil still comes out, then it has to be a ring/clearance issue.

Good explanation S4! RB30, Um-you might want to do some more research. Maybe start with www.calaisturbo.com.au and find out the difference between S1 and S2 blocks! As SK has already commented above, these engines seem to pump LOTS of oil into the head and really benefit from good oil drainage, and even extra drainage systems for performance engines. I would think blocking off a MASSIVE source of drainage would not help things. Those like me who have done all there tuning on a dyno may not find out until road testing that their cylinder heads are full of lots of nice slippery oil but their sumps are nearly drained!. There are no G-forces on a dyno to simulate acceleration and braking so you may not know if your sump is nearly empty until you do a sustained high rpm run and do some heavy braking…that’s when I knew I had this issue. Lets keep the sharing of info going guys! Good work.

I think you'll find RB30-power is a long term member of that very forum and he knows his stuff......

There is only one oil drain fitting on both S1 and S2 blocks. The differences are in the turbo oil feed and coolant feed fittings, or lack thereof.

You could braze a hose-tail fitting into the sump rather than tee'ing it into the turbo return line i guess.

Sorry if this comes across a bit harsh, but it has been a long night fixing gearboxes.......

Have you done a leak down test? Both wet and dry?

What were the results? That will tell you in about 20 minutes whether you have an internal engine problem. STOP GUESSING and confirm all is well.

Nissan put the external oil return on RB25's for a reason, the cam covers fill up with oil at sustained high rpm's. The VVT system on RB25's put extra oil flow into the cam covers, that how the VVT operates, oil pressure controlled by a solenoid. The extra oil has to be returned to the sump via the standard fitting. PUT IT BACK ON!!!!!

I would NEVER plumb into the turbo oil return line. Too risky, any back pressure can slow the oil flow from the turbo. Use a separate return path, follow Nissan's lead, how many oil returns are there from the 2 turbos on a GTR? THAT WOULD BE TWO! And on the RB25, how many fitings are there for the turbo and the oil return. THAT WOULD BE TWO!

I figure if Nissan think they need separate oil return for everything, why would I think I only need one for both turbo and oil return. USE SEPARATE OIL RETURNS to the sump.

Lastly, oil catch can. YOU NEED ONE, if you are not going to plumb the cam cover oil breathers back into the inlet. You can't have open fittings, you will get oil everywhere, YES. even if the engine is in perfect condition. DO IT NOW!!!

I guarantee you, if the leak down test is OK, and you refit the external oil return, use separate fittings for the returns to the sump and properly fit a catch can, IT WILL BE PERFCET. So get on with it, spend less time typing and more time fixing.

Hope that helps :rant:

PS; I did say it might be a bit harsh. :innocent:

I had a lot of trouble with oil getting pushed out the breathers at high RPM( same as dave), It turned out to be sump was slightly overfull(only a few hundred ml), every time it would spit oil out i would re-fill what was pushed out, so it would just keep spitting the same amount of oil out. I tried not adding anymore oil after it had spat some out and this fixed the problem. The oil level is now just under the "H" on the dipstick, if i fill it slightly higher than this it will push the oil out again. I suspect its to do with windage from the crank at high rpm and if you have the oil level too close to the crank it will splash oil around which gets pushed up the breather with all the crankcase pressure.

Give it a try Dave.

  • 3 weeks later...

i have same problem in one of my rb30det engines, rb25de head, after a 5 lap drift event my catch tank has 500mls of oil, as i used one of the 2 breather lines, then after chaning to dual breather lines, down 2 200ml, whats wrong? compression was good on all cyl,

why? i am sure its due to using 2x 1.8mm head feed rather than 1x1.8, 1.8mm is still plenty of oil for hydralic lifter heads, i think the breathers on rb30's should be inlarged to al leasted the gtr 20mm size,

if i trashed my car (oil was at high level,) for a few minutes, get out quickly and check oil, there is virtually non on dip stick, this proves the 2x1.8mm feeds ar to much dosent it! oil in head is still trickling back

the next rb26 rb30 i used only one 1.8mm feed and it runs like a dream,

and that vvt return is not nessacary (when the vvt oil gallary is blocked), there is actualy around 10x 10mm oil returns in head, the large ones at rear are mostly there for blow buy,

cacth tanks are a must at leasted 2L use both lines not just one like i did (slows air speed)

block off the flywheel end head oil feed with a m8x1.25 grub screw,

vacume return valves removed, also all breathers into intake as it makes it a mess anyway,

o and finally if there is alot of oil in catch tanks, place a few new goldielock pot scrubers in cam covers after the mesh, this will baffle more oil out, or enlarge the breathers to a size similar to the gtr,

Cheers already been fixing up the catch can situation today :P

Those replies are exactly what I am after!

Cheers Guys, I'll update this once its all fixed up and see how it goes!

:rofl:

so how did you go with this? fixed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...