Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

as the title reads, i hear an odd noise when the clutch is in. It's hard to describe, so i'll do the best i can. It sounds like it's coming from where the gearbox joins the motor, and it's like a rattling/whining type of sound. My next door neighbor had a listen to it and his first impression was a throw out bearing (not sure of spelling). But then he asked if it had an aftermarket clutch, which it does - it's a OS giken twin plate clutch, and then he said he's not sure what type of noises they make.

I can't drive it on the roads as it is unregistered so i don't know what noises it makes whilst driving.

Any help would be great... thanks in advance guys.

Regards,

Shaun

Twin plates rattle a little when you push the clutch in (disengaged).. the plates are loose so the vibrations from the engine/input shaft can cause them to rattle a little. It could also be your thrust bearing if its whining a bit. Nothing to worry about.

Twin plates rattle a little when you push the clutch in (disengaged).. the plates are loose so the vibrations from the engine/input shaft can cause them to rattle a little. It could also be your thrust bearing if its whining a bit. Nothing to worry about.

Thanks Andrew, appreciate that.

Yeah my mates HKS twin is damn loud.. My triple however is nice and quiet.. Just a little rattle.. Typical though my 180SX had a loud input bearing on the input shaft of the gearbox, that car made noise in nuetral with the clutch out, this one makes noise with teh clutch in, can't win...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...