Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got told that i wouldnt be able to use the greddy tt kit on either of these cars as the kit is american made and is suited for left hand drive cars would this make a difference? Why wouldnt i be able to put it on a right hand side drive car. seems stupid to me can someone explain?

I have 4 words and a mathematical symbol for you

Steering column + exhaust manifold

It might seem stupid, but the problem relates laws of physics regarding two different objects being unable to occupy the same point in space/time.

I don't know if there is a GReddy / Trust kit for RHD Z33s or V35s, but I wouldn't buy a kit from the US if I were you, because of that potential risk.

As for getting the GReddy kit itself:

The GReddy kit is USD$6,000 (or around AUD$8,000) with intercooler. Add shipping and you're looking at a couple of hundred at least, since its not going to be light. If you get hit up for Customs and Duty you're probably looking at AUD$10,000 before you've paid for someone to install it.

Plus you're probably going to want to get an aftermarket exhaust (the HiTech and APS stainless steel catbacks are just under $2000, Japanese ones are usually around $2500).

I've also read some nasty things about the original GReddy kits being shoddy. Some of the required bolts were either too short or not supplied (not a major issue for a workshop, but it is if you buy in to GReddy's hype that you could fit it at home and you're not the kind of freak that has a shitload of spare bolts in varying sizes lying around) and various parts needing "encouragement" to fit together.

This may have been resolved in the time since its initial release, but its something to be aware of.

For $15,000 you can get an APS TT kit installed, which has been designed to comply with ADRs and comes with a nice, shiny, engineering certificate.

And to go with the local support and warranty it offers, the APS kit makes another 100rwhp.

I've never been in a GReddy TT equipped car, but I have been in an APS TT 350Z. The power delivery is smooth. It pulls like your standard 350Z up until 2300RPM (which means it pulls pretty damned well) and then the power just smoothly swells and doesn't let up when you near redline. Aside from flutter at medium load lift-off and the sneeze at high RPM, the thing is so civilised you wouldn't know it wasn't OEM.

So even though the GReddy kid makes less boost (and so might be even more linear in terms of power delivery), the APS kit is smooth enough that you'd take the extra power even if you were after a GT-style car.

I don't think many people have ever had anything nice to say about Unichips.... :cheers:

No PowerFC available for the VQ motor yet. So you're either stuck with a piggyback (Unichip, E-Manage, F-Con Pro) or a full replacement like a MoTeC.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...