Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wondering how much the R33 stock fuel pump can push, ive herd guys just upgrading em after 200 rwkw but then guys that are making 250 kw with stock pumps.

whats the story,all my previous cars have had aftermarket fuel pumps.

yeah its not an exact "this is max limit" but its not worth the risk if its going to lean out or risking it given the price to upgrade is cheap too. i also had starting problems with my stock pump but the new one has fixed that

Hmmm well i've got a 620hp GT35/40R going on soon, i will have to upgrade the injectors and the fuel pump as well. Seems the more money ya spend on ya car, the more money you have to spend to keep it working right......hehe

Hmmm well i've got a 620hp GT35/40R going on soon, i will have to upgrade the injectors and the fuel pump as well. Seems the more money ya spend on ya car, the more money you have to spend to keep it working right......hehe

And if you want use the full power of that turbo you will have to replace alot more things that fuel pump and injectors :uh-huh:

No point 'upgrading' to a GTR fuel pump which is generally just as old. Might as well spend the same or a little extra and get a brand new bosch.

In my old GTS-t I had a brand new Bosch 040 supplied/fitted for $350 and that was 18mths ago.

INASNT: trust me, i've got a lot of parts just sitting here waiting to go on ;)

Benm: Yeah have been looking at the 040 and the 044. Seeing as the more i take this car past standard the more it might just be a track car. So no real point in doing an in tank pump.

040 are designed to be intank.

I thought the only differance btw 044 and 040 was 044=external and 040=internal.

Just some advise, something learnt by experience. Buy the 040, build a surge tank a little bigger, and mount the 040 inside the surge tank. This will help reduce the noise from the pump (and trust me a 044/040 is bloody noisy), you can then put as much sound damping material, as you prefer, all over the surge tank to reduce the noise even more. Fuel will also act as a coolant for the pump. With a 044 (external) you are unable to dampen the noise as you run a risk of overheating the pump (so i have been told).

I unfortunately just have to live with it, but i honesty am not bothered by the noise, my mates on the other hand can't get over it, and keep biatching.

Gee ur making me think hard now (new owner has had it for about 3mths).

R33 GTS-t, 198rwkw, 3" full nismo exhaust (pretty quiet compared to most GTS-t's), std turbo, std ecu, fmic, k&n, ex cam gear.

I will get the Fuel pump when I get the PFC tuned.

As far as injectors go, ive spoken to many a performance shop, and said the RB25s injectors seem to be at there max at about 250-260 rwkw.

yer, i was going to ask what do standard injectors max out at?

ive got a powerfc coming and im going to order a 040 fuel pump as well when driftking gets more in

wondering if stock injectors will be ok for stock turbo ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...