Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why do automatic tranny cooler lines run through the radiator?

Thats the question.

Do only autos come with the radiator that ducts them in?

Can i bypass it and run just a front mount AT oil cooler or does it assist in the cooling or oil thining/thickening?

Cheers

oil_cooler.JPG

Why do automatic tranny cooler lines run through the radiator?

Thats the question.

Do only autos come with the radiator that ducts them in?

Can i bypass it and run just a front mount AT oil cooler or does it assist in the cooling or oil thining/thickening?

It's an oil cooler and generally all auto cars have one in the radiator. Yes you can run a separate trans oil cooler - it actually extends the life of the tranny esp if you plan on engine power boosts.

I know its an oil cooler the point of the question is why is it ducted into the radiator

and what ramifications will it have if not used but just running a big tranny oil cooler

Cheers

I know its an oil cooler the point of the question is why is it ducted into the radiator

and what ramifications will it have if not used but just running a big tranny oil cooler

Cheers

It's cheaper to do it that way in mass production, plus it allows the tranny fluid to reach operating temp quicker which aids driveability. I've also read somewhere of one manufacturer (toyota from memory) claiming that it reduced emissions by optimising operating temps, etc.

It is almost invariably better to disconnect the factory cooler and run a separate air/oil trans cooler. The factory type is small and you can usually fit a larger aftermarket type that gives better cooling all round and will extend trans life. For a standard car the factory cooler will do the job, but boosting engine power or continuous engine load (eg towing) makes fitting an aftermarket cooler mandatory AFAIC.

Downsides - finding the space + the trans will take longer to reach operating temp esp in cold climates (eg winter in melbourne)

I know for a fact there are atleast 2 different radiators for r32s. One is an auto one, with the trans cooler part, one is a manual one without it. Obviously I'm not 100% if *all* auto ones got the auto radiator or if *all* manual ones got the manual radiator but it would stand to reason.

I would probably keep the transfluid running in to the radiator then in to the external trans cooler then back to the gearbox.

Setup that way would no doubt help absorb peak hour traffic trans fluid temps when there is no air passing through the external trans cooler.

when i fitted a trannie cooler to my R32 auto, i found that it did indeed have the factory AT oil cooler on the bottom of the radiator...

i simply run the fluid through this cooler, then through my aftermarket cooler, then back to the trannie :rofl:

How would running the AT cooler lines through the radiator assist in keeping the fluid cool?

Granted it getsit to operatin temp quicker but is this one of those things that pulls both ways?

I will be replacing my radiator with a manual one so i wont be running through the radiator but will the setup be okay still?

You don't want your fluid too cold, it doesn't behave properly. They make these fluids to behave in a certain way in a certain temperature range. Outside the range and they don't work properly. I run mine through both the radiator and the cooler in the front drivers side air dam.

The liquid (transmission fluid) to liguid (water in radiator) cooler is the most efficient. Liquid (transmission fluid) to air transmission cooler is not as efficient, so it has to be larger. The Stagea (have a look at the transmission cooler thread in the Stagea section) has both standard, I simply replaced the small standard air to fluid cooler with a much larger and more efficient Davies Crag transmisson cooler. But I kept the fluid to fluid cooler as well, can't have too much transmission cooling when towing.

As long as you use a large enough air to fluid transmssion cooler, then you can live without the fluid to fluid cooler. Make sure you put it in the line of airflow from the radiator fan, that will helpo when in traffic, not moving much for long periods.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah pretty impressive hey, good to see quality products not over-shooting their prices. That's what drew me to buy the hypergear turbo, just a shame I've never got the chance to see it in action
    • Thank you GTSBoy and MBS206 I have done the compression test with the motor out of the vehicle, reason for the test was to see if I needed to remove the head and do rings etc while its out. I'm in the process of respraying the vehicle and tidying up a few things. Story behind it all is I've just purchased the skyline and it was running when I got it, never drove it on the street though as I wanted to pull it down and do it all up again before registering it. the gentleman I purchased it from told me the motor has a forged bottom end and has a decent tune through it but I was going to pull the sump off anyway to see if it is a forged bottom end. that's why I thought id do a compression test beforehand. 
    • Man, I'm kind of amazed that the price of the turbo has not changed in 7 years. Everything else is inflating beyond reason, but not this? Good on Tao / hypergear I guess? Anyways, good luck with the sale!
    • I'm selling my brand new, in the box, never used Hypergear ATR45 - and I had some additions I paid for a few yrs back when I purchased it. Never ended up having the rest of the money to add all the mods at once, so I just ended up slowly selling each part. I originally had it internally gated, with the dump pipe, however I found it was incompatible with what I was going to use it for, so I contacted (I think Ken) from Hypergear, and he and I messaged back and forth & he got me to ship the turbo back, where they modified it & made it externally gated, and gave me the 5 bolt dump pipe attachment for custom welding. (Photos below) This turbo like I said has never touched the inside of an engine bay, it's completely brand new, never used, been sitting in the same box it arrived in, covered in plastic & all. Below are the photos of it: And while the guys at Hypergear were making it in-shop, they sent me some photos of the process: I'm looking at selling this just because I'm in need of the money right now, and don't have plans on modifying the 34 anytime soon - and from reviews & peformance sheets, this turbo had amazing results back when I was researching. The turbo was purchased in 2018 for $1.9k, with the mods I got added on. Looking at the website now, for the same turbo they sell (ATR45SAT), with the current addons it adds up to $1830 for the turbo Current addons included: - Bolted dump adaptor - Ball bearing CHRA - Braided oil feeding line So I'm looking to possibly sell it for around $1800, with shipping included in that 1.8k, It cost me around $120 to ship - so yeah thought I'd throw it out there and see if anyone was interested in purchasing. Cheers!
×
×
  • Create New...