Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest DIRTgarage
Wondering wat all your opinions are of wat the hardest job is on a GTR??

Im putting a vote in for the good ole start motor!  

Took it off today, damn thing. Turbo's come second in my books!  :singer:

Easy fix for starter....remove the brackets holding the hicas lines and push them across towards the chassis rail, this should allow you to easily access the top bolt. Using a palm 14mm spanner or a cut down old crappy one shold allow you to unbolt it without too much trouble.

Definately removing the turbos and manifolds and then reinstalling. Absolute freakin bitch of a job. Personally I think the front turbo is more annoying than the rear: front turbo+manifold fouls on the A/C compressor and when the front one is out of the way its easier to get a spanner on the rear turbo related nuts. Some of those manifold-to-head nuts are just insanely difficult to undo/tighten.

Getting at the coolant plug on the block (from the bottom) is also right up there.

Lucien.

Yep, turbos. Done it once; never want to do it again.

Gget yourself a 1/4" drive sidchrome socket set, and buy the small unijoint separately (doesn't come in kit). With this kit and an assortment of spanners you can get to every nut.

Also get a 17mm flange spanner for the turbo water lines. Don't get the repco version - they flex too much.

Definately removing the turbos and manifolds and then reinstalling.  Absolute freakin bitch of a job.  Personally I think the front turbo is more annoying than the rear:  front turbo+manifold fouls on the A/C compressor and when the front one is out of the way its easier to get a spanner on the rear turbo related nuts.  Some of those manifold-to-head nuts are just insanely difficult to undo/tighten.

Getting at the coolant plug on the block (from the bottom) is also right up there.

Lucien.

Yep, turbos. Done it once; never want to do it again.

Gget yourself a 1/4" drive sidchrome socket set, and buy the small unijoint separately (doesn't come in kit). With this kit and an assortment of spanners you can get to every nut.

Also get a 17mm flange spanner for the turbo water lines. Don't get the repco version - they flex too much.

Yes, a 1/4 drive socket set + unijoint is essential for the turbo removal job. I found myself wedging it between the manifold and turbo joint to get at some of the nuts along the bottom of the front manifold. Knuckles needs about two weeks to recover.

Getting at the turbo oil and water lines wasn't so hard, it was keeping the washers in place when trying to do them up. Its one of those jobs you can get lucky and do in five minutes, or be really unlucky and spend half a day trying to finish.

Lucien.

Changing the windshield wipers for sure... Jesus christ... those f#ckers just didnt want to come off... I had to like lift up the windshield wiper 'what a mission', try sliding out the old one... was so stiff had to get a friend to help rip it out together... finally got that rubber mother off... THEN trying to install the new one... it was like trying to fit a football down a garden hose.... so tight... Anyway 5 hours later I finally got my windshield wipers changed.. 'YES BOTH OF THEM' & it's something I wish never to do again...

I've also got an intense story about changing the rear licence plates lights... but there'll be time for that another day...

:)

EDIT... Just to make sure nobody takes anything at all literally from my story I have actually changed wipers b4 for in about 2 mins no problems... LMAO com'on how could any1 take any part of my 'pulling leg story' serious... Lwells... I see you deleted your post... hahah It took you 30 mins? I really hope you were kidding too..

That's nothing. Once I had to change gears in me car. Took all sorts of work including finding the clutch, getting the accelerator right, making sure the engine was running. And the kids of today don't believe ya :)

Changing a wiper blade? Just get the Nissan ones. The generic blades from (name any store) don't fit. The Nissans use a narrower slide than the std ones - not by much but enough to hurt. I have the same problem on a Patrol. Did the Gibbon trick the first time, gave up on the other one, bought the real ones the next time.

Changing the windshield wipers for sure... Jesus christ... those f#ckers just didnt want to come off... I had to like lift up the windshield wiper 'what a mission', try sliding out the old one... was so stiff had to get a friend to help rip it out together... finally got that rubber mother off... THEN trying to install the new one... it was like trying to fit a football down a garden hose.... so tight... Anyway 5 hours later I finally got my windshield wipers changed.. 'YES BOTH OF THEM' & it's something I wish never to do again...

I've also got an intense story about changing the rear licence plates lights...  but there'll be time for that another day...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...