Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had to collect all my own. The ones I couldn't find I had to retrace. I have quite a collection going now of about 140-150 logos. If you're a member on the SilviaWA forums, I have a list of them there in the Traders section.

Cheers

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80318-vector-pictures/#findComment-1464287
Share on other sites

I had to collect all my own. The ones I couldn't find I had to retrace. I have quite a collection going now of about 140-150 logos. If you're a member on the SilviaWA forums, I have a list of them there in the Traders section.

Cheers

Brendan

Brendan is awsome, he did 3 stickers for me, 2 custom and 1 tomei sticker; and what can i say they came out awsome, really top work, price was good too :)

p.s im evl_r33, you did those tuning house stickers for me (i will contact you soon on again, as i need another 3 or 4 for some friends :))

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80318-vector-pictures/#findComment-1464342
Share on other sites

Thanks mate, and if you haven't gathered from the above post, I have a vinyl cutter. I'm mainly only doing logos and stuff as I'm not quite setup for doing racing stripes et al. I did however do the graphics on 'Angry13' which some of you may have seen at the recent Cabin Autosalon under the SilviaWA banner. Also did all the ones on the C-Red cars except for the racing stripes (S15) and window tinting (JZ, S14).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80318-vector-pictures/#findComment-1464389
Share on other sites

It really depends on what you want to do. I mean with Woody's car (Angry13) I already had vector art laid out on an outline of a Silvia already done. So I resized to correct size, cut and applied. I applied dry though, not wet which can also be done.

In regards to taking off, it depends on whether or not the paint has had time to cure. Woody's paint is original, so there's no problem. But with new paint you need to leave at least 2 weeks before you apply graphics otherwise when you pull it off you can take paint off. When you're taking it off, either leave in sun for a while or use something like a heat gun to make it easier to remove. If there anything left over (glue/gum), first use some mineral turpentine on a rag and soak the area, if a lost of glue, soak and scrap off with a plastic card, then use methylated spirits to clean off. Finally before applying any graphics use IPA (isopropyl alchohol) to clean the area. If you apply graphics onto newly polished areas, don't expect it to last as it doesn't stick well and the polish and any other contaminents can gas out through the vinyl sticker.

Here endeth the lesson.

Cheers

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80318-vector-pictures/#findComment-1464877
Share on other sites

Hehehe, well there's differences firstly in the way the vinyl is made. Some is sort of stretched out (calendered) and the other is layed out (cast). Cast is the better of the two as it doesn't have the inherent tendency to want to go back to original shape. It also depends on the manufacturers specifications, the longer you want it to last, the more you pay. The manufacturers will guarantee it to last a specific amount of time as long as it's been applied properly. It also depends on it's location on how long it will last - full sun facing up versus side of car, minimal sun. Hope that gives you an idea. I tend to use only the better stuff (Avery 900 series vinyl) as it's a little easier to work with most times and you never know how long it'll need to last. But I always give caveats to the customer depending on whether or not that polished the car recently etc etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80318-vector-pictures/#findComment-1467884
Share on other sites

Computer images are viewed as one of two types (mostly) - raster or vector. Raster images are those wholly made up of pixels (coloured or monotone) - examples are photos (JPEG's, Bitmaps, TIFF's, RAW) and gif animations. When you zoom in on a raster image, all you'll see is bigger pixels. A vector image however is made up of how should I put it...mathmatical data for want of a better term. Basically is says to the viewing app draw a line from this point to that point in black and make it 0.25mm thick. Vector apps include Macromedia Freehand, Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw, Macromedia Flash (which can use both vector and raster) and to some extent Adobe Photoshop (although that's a mainly raster based app). When you zoom in on vector images, the lines, colours, shapes and fills stay sharp even at 1600% magnification.

Hope that explains it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80318-vector-pictures/#findComment-1468445
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

just wondering what prograns u use to convert bitmap to vector. i use coral draw and vinyl master pro at times just wondered if you had found something more user friendly :angry: i have a vinyl cutter as well and have hundreds of stripe type graphics already in vector

cheers mid life crisis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80318-vector-pictures/#findComment-1905681
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...