Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil On Steering rack boot

MANWHORE

By MANWHORE,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

hypntk Apprentice

hypntk

Posted
Posted
What does this mean?

Workin in a workshop ive seen this "common" thing heaps. My r32 has oil all over the steering rack and im yet to see a car come into our workshop wit a totaly spotless one. Unless the oil is dripping off or the power steering fluid is going down rapidly then its no problem and is totaly normal for the rack to have oil over it. Hope that helps, i dunno y they leak but you dont have to worry about it....

powerpuff Newbie

powerpuff

Posted
Posted

rack end seals are worn/going hard.

You can get a product from lucas (in a white bottle about $15) that stops leaks.

However not sure if this is great for pumps etc. Put it in my gfs car, still leaking a bit from rack but better. The level doesnt go down much but there is wetness around the boot. The boot is split so it comes out. If the boot was in better condition it would probably just build up in there for a while.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the stupid thing is the boots are not split. The car in question is only 4 years old. Family car.

Sorry for the lack of knowledge, but what is the oil that is leaking? I'm guessin that since it is from the steering rack it is power steering fluid?

Cheers

powerpuff Newbie

powerpuff

Posted
Posted

Yes my gf car is p/steer fluid. Wierd that is only 4 years old and it is doing it. It is normal to get a little fluid I think but not much!

Usually would be contained within the boot.

Maybe it has a little split you can't see or just the cable ties arent very tight.

If under warranty get it fixed otherwise Id probably suggest leaving it unless it is really bad

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm gonna clean the boot off first. I'm just hoping that for some odd reason, oil has splashed onto it. I dunno how though, because it's not near anything.

There's something i'm wondering. If I do not repair it now, will I run into more problems later? like will it end up costing more? (provided I keep the fluid topped up)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...