Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

greddy.. how long will u have these prices for? im looking at a RB25 conversion so the piping wont fit.. do u do custem work?

PM sent :D

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Need one of these asap (r33 FMIC kit), where are u located? is pickup available? im in WA

email me [email protected]

or better call me 0439924808

Edited by Hypn0tiK
is there any point on having a oil cooler on a gtr that only has 14psi,3inch zorst,filters etc?or waste of time

It depends on your application and location.

If you intend on taking your car to a few track days and if its warm where you live then Id recommend getting one.

If you are only driving around town for short bursts then I probably wouldnt bother.

:)

Was the blitz style BOV plumb back? Can you get an adaptor plate to fit to a s1 R33? Where abouts does the FMIC join up on the same car? Does it run up in front of the motor or back underneath to the stock piping?

yeh max temps where i live in summer would be 34 degrees and i wont do track days until i upgrade turbos and get my attesa working again,thanks anyway buddy

Was the blitz style BOV plumb back? Can you get an adaptor plate to fit to a s1 R33? Where abouts does the FMIC join up on the same car? Does it run up in front of the motor or back underneath to the stock piping?

The blitz style BOV arent plumb back, they vent to atmo and they come with a universal adaptor which will require welding to your piping.

The FMIC piping runs over the top of the motor/fan blades.

Cheers. :(

Cheers heaps, like everyone probably asks, how long is this stuff available? Also, do you know what the pressure loss is like with the FMIC?

Availability depends on how fast they sell. Should be ok for a while yet :angry:

0.2 psi drop at 15 psi.

Cheers.

Thats pretty good. Thanks for the multiple replies. Can you organize postage from where you are? I'm on the sunnycoast any idea on cost?

Do you run an oil cooler and/or catch can, what purpose do they serve?

All the prices shown include delivery Australia wide.

I run both the oil cooler and the catch can with the filter on my series 1 GTST.

The oil cooler is effective in lowering the temps of the oil which is very handy if driving hard and/or in hot environments.

If you can keep your temps low then you will definitely minimise the chances of blowing your engine :angry:

The oil catch can is used to seperate oil vapour from the air to help reduce excess oil build ups within your intake & FMIC.

Heres a couple of handy links to some installs and more info.

OIL COOLER KIT

OIL CATCH CANS

- note the info from sydneykid, he is a wealth of information :D

Cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...
In regard to the globes....do they emit a completely white light or do they have a slight blue to them?

Can you get matching parkers too?

They emit a white light.

Cant get parkers unfortunately.

Try here - parker bulbs

Cheers,

paul.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...