Jump to content
SAU Community

Cooling Issues in my Cef

l6a6w6s6

By l6a6w6s6,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

l6a6w6s6 Enthusiast

l6a6w6s6

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

was hoping people here could help me solve my cooling issues in my rb20det cef.

I bought the car knowing it needed a new radiator, so I immediately fitted a decent second hand one. Water pump went immediately (first drive) so that has been replaced too.

All was fine for a couple of weeks until the other night the top radiator hose burst and the engine got very hot. Actually shut down by itself. The gauge was reading normal and I couldn't see any steam because it was dark. Towed it home, waiting a few hours for cooling, changed the hose and filled up the coolant. Car started (thank god) but overheated just after warming up.

Since then I have drained and flushed out the whole system, after using a radiator cleaning additive, fitted a new thermostat and given it a really good bleed. It is much better, the car will warm up, drive for about 10-15mins and then the gauge will slowly creep up.

Last drive there was a leak from the thermostat pipe (stupid gasket they gave me was useless). Also couldn't get hot ait from the heater in the cabin which has worked fine in the past.

Head gasket has been suggested, but oil and coolant show no signs of interference, and there are no bubbles coming up through the radiator from exhaust gas in the system. Car also drives well and makes normal power, although is a little hard to start now.

Any ideas? Could there be a blockage in the heater hose section since now it won't work?

I have searched and found lots of good stuff on flushing and bleeding but now I need specific help.

Any feedback is much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80589-cooling-issues-in-my-cef/
Share on other sites
l6a6w6s6 Enthusiast

l6a6w6s6

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Anyone ideas?

Today I'm planning to try and flush out the heating system with some more additive and the garden hose. I'll also be properly sealing the coolant return pipe covering the thermostat with silastic. I might also fill it up with coolant this time, as I have been testing everything with water thus far to save cash.

Any other ideas? If this doesn't work I'm afraid I'll have to leave the car at a specialist for diagnosis.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...