Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the differences?

***

from HPI #51, "RB26 Evolution"

Unbeknownst to most is the differences between R32 and R33 GT-R turbochargers. There are differences no so much in the exterior housings, but in the compressor wheels and in turn the dump pipes, which allow a stock-turbo R33 with bolt-on mods to make significantly more power than its R32 equivalent.

Both of these versions carry the handicap of ceramin turbine wheels though. Whereas 1.2-1.3bar of boost pressure on the R34 turbochargers is a 'gimme', the wise tuner keeps the boost under 1.1bar on the early models and leaves it at that.

***

It seems that no-one actually knows specifics...

but I hope this helps a little

***

from HPI #51, "RB26 Evolution"  

Unbeknownst to most is the differences between R32 and R33 GT-R turbochargers. There are differences no so much in the exterior housings, but in the compressor wheels and in turn the dump pipes, which allow a stock-turbo R33 with bolt-on mods to make significantly more power than its R32 equivalent.

Both of these versions carry the handicap of ceramin turbine wheels though. Whereas 1.2-1.3bar of boost pressure on the R34 turbochargers is a 'gimme', the wise tuner keeps the boost under 1.1bar on the early models and leaves it at that.

***

It seems that no-one actually knows specifics...

but I hope this helps a little

do not run 1.2 to 1.3 on r34 turbos they go bang to, trust me i know

yeah say bye bye to ceramin no matter what model R it is , it will save you money in the end

I think it will be fine to use R32 and R33 GTR turbos together. If there are any differences in compressor wheels they would be very minor. I'm still unconvinced though that there are any differences at all. The "GT-R Owners Book" I bought from Japan shows the difference between all factory turbos. From the specs listed there is NO difference. Yes the dumps are different though.

That particular article in HPI #51 has so many errors in it. Almost all of the information about the R34 motor is completely wrong. Other articles lately have had wrong information too. Unfortunately, you can't believe everything that you read in a magazine.

That particular article in HPI #51 has so many errors in it.  Almost all of the information about the R34 motor is completely wrong.  Other articles lately have had wrong information too.  Unfortunately, you can't believe everything that you read in a magazine.

Gary could you please elaborate on your post? :confused: I have little love for HPI on the whole, and would love to have the story set straight.

Did you respray it after you imported it or sumthing?

Without making disparaging comments about import brokers, suffice to say the description of the car was missing quite a few important (and obvious) details. I don't mind sharing, so if you are interested in hearing more, beam over a PM :P

Gary could you please elaborate on your post? :confused: I have little love for HPI on the whole, and would love to have the story set straight.

Well here are a few things they said about the R34:

1. "R34 turbos are a spitting image of an R33 GTR N1 turbo" - WRONG

They are completely different. Different housings and different wheels.

2. "R34 GTR cams have alterted duration and lift" - WRONG

The cam duration and lift are the same for all GTR's. The difference in the R34 cams is the "lobe centre angle" (cam timing). Basically the R34 cams are like having R32/33 cams with cam gears set at 4 deg advanced intake and 4 deg retarded exhaust.

3. "R34 cams won't fit in an R32/33 head" - WRONG

They sure do. There are many people that have done it. The difference is in the connection to the crank angle sensor. The R34 CAS will not fit into R32/33 cams or vise versa.

4. "R34's have a completely recast head"

I don't think so. There may be some minor changes though. I know SK said they have different squish zones. Maybe someone who has properly compared the two can say.

5. "R34 blocks have extra ribbing like N1 blocks to avoid cracking"

My understanding is that N1 blocks are actually made from a different material to provide the extra strength. I have a photo with a comparison of the standard block (05U), N1 block (24U) and the Group A block. It's very hard to see any differences. If only I could read japanese better, then I would know. I'd like to see where the extra ribbing is that they talk about. As for the R34 block they are still stamped with 05U and I don't think they are any different. Plus my tuner has seen them crack before. Again if someone has compared the two properly I'd like to know.

It's just annoying when rumours spread and then end up in magazines.

Gary,

Does that GT-R handbook list the stats for the R34 N1 GT-R turbo? If it does, and you don't mind, can you post up all the dimensions? Just trying to compare to other options as per this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=80624

Cheers,

Lucien.

I have a photo with a comparison of the standard block (05U), N1 block (24U) and the Group A block. As for the R34 block they are still stamped with 05U and I don't think they are any different.

Only saying wat i read...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...