Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

i have an r34gtt and the passenger headlight gets moisture bulid up inside. Does anyone know who to fix it. Also does anyone know how to get the clear cover off so i can clean the inside?? i took the light out and took all the clips off and it still wouldnt come off is it glued ????

any help would be muchly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80811-foggy-headlight-r34gtt/
Share on other sites

I get the same thing dude... I think it's an inherant thing. I haven't cleaned and sealed it up yet. I've looked this prob up before and people seem to say it is glued and you can unglue it by putting it in a WARM (not hot) oven for a bit to soften glue, then it just peels off... I'm not game enough to do this. Maybe wait till it's warm and the vapor has gone from inside, then just reseal the edge with silicone or something...

Well, hope you sort it out, it's a bit annoying hey?

cheers.

i know it is really annoying i hate little trivial things like that i have priced two new head lights the cheapest i can get them for is 520 and he will give me 150 for mine so 370 ea. Someone said something about using a heat gun to soften up the glue. Oven sounds to risky for me too hahahaha tnen i am worried about reseal them what can you use??

I'm not 100% sure what to use, but I'd hazard a guess that a mould resistant silicone that will stick to plastic should do the job. (Otherwise known as bathroom/kitchen silicone). Just read the back of the tube to make sure it'll stick to your plastic.

The heat gun sounds like a somewhat safer way to do it too... If I was going to pull my light apart, I'd go the heat gun over and oven!!

Anyway, good luck with it.

Oh, with the silicones, get one that dries CLEAR, not white!

cheers!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Ages ago a guy did a thread on this exact thing with heaps of instructions. I couldn't be bothered searching for it because I don't have the problem but I think he used the oven method with success after hearing the rumour that it worked then you use the black silicone that they use for glass seals, windscreens etc.

Ages ago a guy did a thread on this exact thing with heaps of instructions.  I couldn't be bothered searching for it because I don't have the problem but I think he used the oven method with success after hearing the rumour that it worked then you use the black silicone that they use for glass seals, windscreens etc.

my light fogs up too on the passenger side and i know of 2 other r34 gtt's that do as well ...mmm might try drilling a small hole in the back ....

so where did u drill the hole excatly ....?

intructions...?

i will take some photos of where i drilled when i take my light out next. i have to spend a day servicing and working on my car so i will post some soon.

the only thing is that it still fogs up every now and then, but after drilling the holes the moisture inside dissipates alot quicker( a matter of hours). Whereas before it used to stay in there for weeks. i wish i knew how that moisture is getting in. I have never seen the OEM Xenon light set up. From what i can gather though the ballast is incorporated into the headlight assembly on the inside behind the low beams. Mine looked as though the ballast has been cut out of the bottom of the headlight asssembly and then a piece of plastic has been siliconed in place i think the moisture gets in from there ???

has anyone seen or have pics of the OEM Xenon setup?? anyhelp would be appreciated??

Next time i take the lights out i might try completely covering the part which looks like it has been cut out in bathroom grade waterproof silicon to see if that where it is getting in??

As for this putting the headlight in the oven business i really wonder if it works?? Not game enough to try this as a new headlight costs around 500bucks.

I've found that Maguire's 'Plastic X' makes your headlights look new and temporarily gets rid of the 'foggy headlight look' that most Skylines have. The affect lasts a while as well. I've also heard of the oven trick, but since finding this product I haven't really bothered researching further into it because the headlights come up clear enough for me. I'd be interested to know if anyone can get the light apart though! It would be great to be able to use this stuff on the inside of the light as well.

"Oh yeah well if he's so smart, how come he's dead?"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...