Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing new turbos What gaskets do I need ?

Tommyk

By Tommyk,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

Im doign the same and have my list in front of me now. You will need x2 mannifold gaskets, x2 turbo to mannifold gaskets, x2 f/pipe to dump pipe gaskets, x1 f/pipe to cat gasket, x2 turbo intake gaskets, x2 turbo outlet gaskets, possibly dump pipe gaskets if you have removed the sump pipes off the turbo's? and also you may need the 2 gaskets on the turbos for the oil return lines.. There is a gasket the goes between the front turbo and the pipe that says 'twin turbo' but you will only need one of those size gaskets assuming you havent taken the little adapter piece off the front turbo outlet?

Hopefully i havent confused you too much! If you need anymore help i can describe thiongs in more detail...

Deren

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

2 x Head --> Manifold Gaskets

2 x Manifold --> Turbo Gaskets

2 x Turbo --> Dump Gaskets

2 x Dump --> Front Gaskets

You will also need the gaskets for the twin turbo pipe (there are three). What else... hmm.. Oil return gasket? Comp wheel gasket?

Make sure they change the manifold --> head (and preferably turbo --> dump) studs. Here are some of Nissan prices I got awhile ago (for an R32, but should be all the same I imagine):

Turbo -> Manifold Stud: 14411A :: 14064-05U01 ($13.24ea x 8 = $105.92)

Turbo -> Manifold Nut: 14432 :: 14432-P7600 :: 14432-0B700 ($7.85ea x 8 = $62.80)

Turbo -> Dump Stud: 14414M :: 14414-17F00 ($12.21ea x 10 = $122.10)

Turbo -> Dump Nut: 14432+A :: 14432-P7600 :: 14432-0B700 ($7.85ea x 10 = $78.50)

Dump -> Front Gasket: 20692M :: 20692-P9000 :: 20692-65J00 ($16.58ea x 2 $33.16)

Dump -> Front Stud: 14440A :: 14064-N4200 :: 14064-58Y00 (Unknown; have to come from Japan)

Dump -> Front Nut Fix: 20602 :: 20602-41G00 (Unknown; have to come from Japan)

Much better to use aftermarket :P

Edit: Oh, you'll also need the copper washers for the oil/water lines.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
Is it really necessary to replace the studs?? I was not aware of this..

I'd do them all because you can, its cheap insurance, and I like thorougness :P

Realistically, the head studs should definately be replaced IMHO. They are subject to a lot of expansion and contraction, and its not unusual for them to crack. For the 30-something dollars it costs to replace them its a definite in my books

Turbo --> dump and turbo --> manifold are more iffy.

Tommyk: A bit more is coming back. You'll need two locking plates and check your manifolds for straightness.

Lucien.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Hey guys

 

Car is going in next week to get all the parts fitted.

Can anyone tell me what gaskets i need specifically? for the gtr replacement turbos?

Do i simply need the intake and exhaust gaskets or do i also need all the other ones listed in FAST?

 

 

 

Cheers

Tommy

What kind of turbos are you using ? Turbo kits usualy come with all the gaskets and studs needed . They dont usualy come with the manifold studs though .

The locking plates you can reuse if they havent been taken off to many times before .

Tommyk Veteran

Tommyk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

geez

It almost looks as though the gaskets are going to cost as much as the turbos themselves

Does anyone know where i can get aftermarket gaskets? Or should i just go genuine nissan?

Lucien, are you sure i will need to replace all those parts ? :)

I think im going to wait until the engine is out, and then replace the relevant gaskets/parts as i go

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

GCG will have the turbo --> manifold and compressor gaskets. The turbo --> dump and the "twin turbo" air intake gaskets you'll need to get from Nissan AFAIK. Manifold --> head gaskets are also Nissan, but quite cheap.

Studs you can buy anywhere and should be cheap: just take along one of each stud you need. The copper washers are a bit of a bitch to find. Locking plates are cheap if you do decide to replace them.

Once upon a time Nissan made a gasket kit for the turbos, but no longer :D

You're probably looking at $50 worth of studs, maybe $100-150 for the gaskets, and $50 for miscellaneous items (locking plates, washers, nuts, etc). The more annoying part is actually getting together everything you need.

There is a reason that HKS charge out the arse for their turbo kits and can get away with it: absolutely everything is included. Saving money means (usually) a loss of time.

Edit: Its times like this you will find that your NSW SAU club membership pays you back in spades. Don't forget to flash it at GCG and Crows Nest Nissan.

Lucien.

loz Enthusiast

loz

Posted
Posted

this is waht i got replaced on recent turbo upgrade..

2x Gasket-exh Manifold 05u00 $64.48

2x Gasket 54c00 $27.33

2x Gasket oil turbocharger $7.15

2X Gasket turbocharger 05u00 $112.17

2x Gasket turbocharger 17m00 $86.86

3x Gasket inlet tube $27.82

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...