Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This my boss's car.

Budget $4000.

There will be no labour costs we will be doing the rebuild ourselves.

Engine's max boost(dual stage) will be 20psi.

What I want to find out is...

1)Recommended pistons and rings.

2) " crank big and main bearings.

3) " metal head gaskets.

4) " after market coil packs.

In saying recommended, I want to know from those that have tried different brands and how those brands stood up.

We are in Sydney and mainly interested in import parts or local as long as we can get them local by end of August at the latest.

Again much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81160-ideas-for-rebuilding-rb25-gtst/
Share on other sites

Why does it need to be rebuilt - as in what went wrong the first time?

This will impact many things in the build

20psi with what turbo? Boost is only a figure and it needs to be dealt with as a relative measure

About the only thing you've listed that is independant of that rule are the coil packs - standard Nissan is usually fine - but splitfire coils are available ~$600 last time I heard off nengun.com

Alot of RB25s are running the arias piston/ring kit which can be had ~$1250.

TOMEI is a popular head gasket - from what I've heard ~$500 but best to get a better price on it from nengun or similar.

The turbo is based on the factory exhaust housing only. The impeller will be a twin bladed turbine same will be done to the compressor turbine. The compressor turbine will also be 5mm bigger in diameter.

The engine is getting a rebuild at 88,000km. Clock was probably wound back. Engine bearings are failing. Engine near impossible to crank by hand. Struggles to run. The oil level had been neglected to the bottom line on the dipstick. How ever after having spoken to Shops in Sydney, they have informed us that the factory sump has no baffle system. When the level is very low, and the car is accelerated hard the oil flows to the back of the sump and away from the pick up.

Also my boss wants to start from scratch with this engine.

What about injectors?

For a high flowed factory turbo, how much cc rate for injectors?

Aftermarket computers? Apexi?Microtech?Haltech? What would you choose to use on this system?

As for the budget the computer price can go on top of the $4k.

Dude look at nengun or similar and write down prices and the like.

Example:

*Apexi/pfc:$XXX.XX

*Nismo 555cc injectors(or whatever u need):$XXX.XX

RaRaRa!!!

You will soon work out the cost involved.And base the build arround your hp target.There is realy no need for overkill when the costs are pushing the build budjet.It will depend on what you want to achive for the car.

Second hand/Reco parts might be the go if he wants the extra not so needed parts that come with a rebuild to cut the costs.

If you look arround on the forums you will find allot of people are asking the same questions.

get rid of the dual stage crap. run one boost level and tune for that. if your going to pull the engine apart and fix stuff why not do the rb30 bottom end. you'll be doing half the work anyway and for an extra $2000 odd youll have a twin cam 3 litre instead, will make much more power everywherne, come on boost quicker and make more torque all over, something bolting a hiflow on wont do

hiflow turbo $2000

apexi powefc $1400 tuned

cold air intake $250

fuel pump $200

injectors 550c (or nissan s15 480cc) injectors = $800 odd

heavy duty clutch $1000

electronic boost controller (or actuator spring change) = $250

pineapple kit to stop diff hopping or "axle tramp" = $150

  • 4 weeks later...

I'll post this up for those who are interested.

After stripping down the engine found the following;

1) Pistons 1, 2, 3, 4 all had their middle bridge between the compression rings broken on the turbo side. = sweet stuff all compression.

2) First main end cap bearing on the verge of failing.

3) Turbo tubines/shaft very difficult to turn by hand, like someone had it lubricated with silicone.

The last two problems come down to lack of maintenance by my boss's brother. Not regularly checking oil levels.

The oil level(when the problems started) was on the bottom line :P

:lol:

All is fixed now and the turbo high flowed, car goes like a bullet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...