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D1 drift and racing intercooler kits - one of the highest quality kits on the market. Now can be purchased without the a group buy at a extremely low price!!!.

For the next 10 kits only all piping kits are delivered for $350 and full kits are $530.. number of kits at this price left = 10

SPECS

Made from polished aluminium with no mandrel bend marks on any of the pipings. Piping is 2.5" and is very similar to the hybrid kits. The flange on the end of the piping is bigger than the hybrid kit for added support.

Silicon joiners are triple layer with chaffing on the third layer.

Clamps are stainless steel

All kits fit perfectly on the R33/R32 and the s13/180sx. When these were manufactured they were also tested on sample cars and the samples have also been tested in Australia. Many people have bought these kits without a single complaint

Will fit most hybrid coolers.

BONUS: All kits come with the nipple to hook up the turbo boost line too. Save a few $$$

Warranty

All kits are backed by an australian warranty 1 year.

Price

$370 delivered for the piping and $550 with the cooler (600 x 300 x 76 mm)

Arrival

Here now ready to go.[/color]

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81321-drift1-racing-intercooler-kits/
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My aussie supplier wants them out the door!!!! So I have the go ahead to sell each kit at $390 in a group buy or $420 without GB... Pm me or reply for more details. Be quick!!! at this price they wont last...

Ive already done a fair bit of mods to the back of the plastic part of the bumper and the front section of the chassis rails to mount the intercooler in there. As far as I can see I just need to cut and shut the two lower pipes to fit the extended end tanks, possibly using a silicone joiner, if not re-welding. This seems the best option short of making a custom set of pipes, which looks like costing around $300-350 in stainless mandrel bends and parts, let alone labour and hassle.

probably will be the cheaper and neater option to modify the d1 kit ....

I have a few kits at home now I will be taking a few picture of them and maybe tomorrow of next weekend putting it on my car and taking it down the drags to give it a test.. :cheers:

How do the piping kits fit in with the factory piping? Does it bend round and come back to the factory intercooler piping? Or does it curve round and come back over the top of the radiator and fans?

it curve round and come back over the top of the radiator and fans? yes that the one..

Just off topic: My mate has a s13 and just put one of my cooler kits on it. My car would be a mid to high 13 if I had decent tyres otherwise it is a 14.051. Anyway he flogged me (2 cars ahead at 140k) and this is the only mod he has done. Oh and apart from the fact that he forgot to hook up the wastegate :rolleyes: 15 PSI he was running. No ping either... Maybe because the cooler is working well - hot on the turbo side and freezing cold on the other...

hey raf, u have an r33 ey don't you?? during the install do you need to move the horn at all?? My horn is mounted next to the fan protruding in front, but the hybrid install ionstructions don't mention it. Any hints for install would be much appreciated.

Cheers

I just installed mine on sunday :) ... Yeah I had to move the horn. I placed it on the bonnet hinge bolts.. The wired will reach it you unclip one of the tyes...

IT took me 7 hrs to install the kit but that because I took my time painted painting the cut surfaces so it wont rust and trying to do a nice job... I forgot to get my camer and take pictures :) but I will take a few picture after my camera is charged an post them up...

I got an extra 1 psi and really noted the difference after I reset the ECU... if I take off like a grand ma, first gear starts spinning the wheels after 4000 rpm and spins most of second gear :) little chirp in 3rd.. Once I start playing with the boost then I should see some action...




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    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
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