Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I must be having a dumb day...........how does cleaning the injectors improve the fuel economy?  Surely a dirty injector flows less, so the fuel economy should be worse when it is cleaned and flows more.

The ECU doesn't know that the injector is dirty, it still opens and closes it according to the mapping.  In closed loop running, the ECU aims for 14.7, so it doesn't matter if the injector is dirty, 14.7 is still 14.7.

As I said, I must be just having a dumb day........

:( cheers  :D

Below is what I visualise how a clagged injector could possibly increase fuel consumption.

Say we have a clagged injector or two that atomizes badly and flows less.

The O2 sensor only views the overall afr, not the individual cylinders.

As a result one or two of the injectors will be flowing less and atomizing fuel badly.

As a result, less fuel flow in to those cylinders is going to increase the afr that is seen by the ecu via the o2 sensor.

As a result the ecu increases duty cycle slightly to bring the 'overall' afr in check.

As I said.. That's the way I visualise the inner workings. :)

I would really like to know why some rb's are better than others on fuel.

My R32 has always been decent, changed to a bigger motor and its hardly changed, not to mention its always on boost due to the small turbo that is hanging off the side of it.

I'm almost scared to swap in some larger injectors. lol

Edited by Cubes
  • 1 month later...

I finally got over 400KM on a tank of fuel, 409km and filled up before the fuel light came on. Thats a record for me!

Edit: I think the light flicked on for 1 second at some stage though. It does seem to slow up a little on takeoff with a full tank ,all that extra weight.

BEFORE the light!

WOW!

I get to about ~380 and then the lights on/off a lot, then at about 400 i get it always on and the car doesnt start very easily on a slight hill

Then at ~410, i fill up and put in 63L's

I know i push it :P

Well, just filled up. 1st FULL tank Ive used since the dynotune service with new O2 sensor.

55.8L filled it right up to max, and did 391.5km for that tank. The fuel gauge light was just starting to flicker.

That equals exactly 7kms per litre, or 14.3L per 100kms. And I was certainly using 'boost' during this 391kms!

Edited by bwilkeson

NRGIZD, like i said, i have a DFA here and built which i wont be needing anymore due to getting a power FC, they RRP at 79 in kit form, and i dont mind giving mine to you at that price built.

You will need the hand controller with it too, but they are pretty easy to build as well (i need to keep my controller for my EBC)

The DFA is also pretty easy to install, and i can also just send you right to the person that was going to tune mine with me Dr Drift.

Grab the SAFC-2 off ebay, for under $400 brand new. Cant go wrong with the Apexi...............

See thats what l was thinking, esp as the workshop l use know them very well.

Might have a sit and think on it, are the hand controllers hard to assemble?

When I first bought my stagea I was getting about 300km to 50ltrs not going over 3000rpm. (Mixed Driving, Sydney & Freeway)

Then autostyle did a service and changed spark plugs, O2 sensor, high flow filter eliment, cleaned all the throtle body, injectors, fuel filters, etc and now I'm getting about 450 to 50ltrs. Not hooning but not granny style like previously.

I also drove to QLD and was achieving 560-600km to 50ltrs.

Car is still facotry standard other than the high flow air filter element.

When I first bought my stagea I was getting about 300km to 50ltrs not going over 3000rpm. (Mixed Driving, Sydney & Freeway)

Then autostyle did a service and changed spark plugs, O2 sensor, high flow filter eliment, cleaned all the throtle body, injectors, fuel filters, etc and now I'm getting about 450 to 50ltrs. Not hooning but not granny style like previously.

I also drove to QLD and was achieving 560-600km to 50ltrs.

Car is still facotry standard other than the high flow air filter element.

Given that is the first post by that ID, and their link is straight to autostyle, you have to wonder about how genuine that comment is.. Care to comment about what your association with them is, and what stagea you drive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...