Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The scenario is you have AU$10,000 to spend on performance/handling etc modificatons for a series 1 rs4. What would you spend it on to make the most out of the money? Keeping in mind that you can't spend all the money on parts alone because although a lot of things can be done without paying for labour, some things can't especially if you don't have the right tools.

Without trying to achieve any specific big power figures but just create an all round good car. The car is completely stock to start off with....

My first though would be manual conversion but that is probably not everyone's cup of tea.

Well, as for at home mods

Jaycar EBC/DFA + tune (paid to someone) ($500)

Sway bars ($400)

Strut brace (unlucky like me) ($250)

Coilovers ($1500)

FMIC kit ($1500)

Exhaust (sorta pay someone, if it has right mounts, it a DIY job) (inc dump/front/cat/catback) ($1500)

CAI for airbox/pod ($50)

Pod/Air filter ($100)

Fuel pump (should be find to DIY if you are remotly mechanically minded) ($400)

** EDIT **

Do turbo and exhaust manifold at the same time. This is DIY, done it to an S14 takes a few hours ($2500)

That should bring you somewhere around 10k

this is what i would do

- exhaust

- air intake either pod in a sealed enlcosure or a high flow panel filter

- modify the air intake for better air flow

- suspension for sure including sway bars

- if auto the ebc and dfa probably jaycar and maybe the sitc that sk is playing with at the moment or a manual conversion which would be my pic and then a plug in like fcon or full aftermarket ecu depends on $$$ though

- 34gtt cooler or front mount cooler

- split dump pipe

- upgraded turbo

thats it so far dont know how far that would be over or under $10k but it depends on how much you can do yourself i suppose

i would love a manual conversion myself but it would not be something i could od myself and would cost $$$ i am sure

hypothetically i didnt set out to spend $10'000 but its got there!!!

garrett GT35r (.63) $1900

top mount manifold $900 (after getting a sh#t one off ebay for $399 that didnt fit!!

Tial 38mm wastegate $499

turbosmart super sonic bov $300

fmic + piping (custom mandrell bent aluminium) $1600

oil and auto trans cooler $600

turbosmart e boost $750

uni chip piggy back $1600 (including labour and dyno tune)

oil catch can $150

turbo timer $299

3" turbo back custom stainless exhaust $1700

shift kit for the auto $380

grex metal head gasket $500

nismo 555cc injectors $1200

fuel pump$300

plus labour (has been in the workshop for 2 months!!)

this f#@ker better go hard!!

then there is the non performace up grades

R34 front seats re trimed in black leather to match the back $$??????

10.5" lcd and dvd player $3500

R34 wheels $2000

tow bar!!!! $350

rear wing $450

S T A G E A number plates $400

AND I STILL DONT GET MY LICENCE BACK TILL OCTOBER!!!!!!!

hypothetically i didnt set out to spend $10'000 but its got there!!!

garrett GT35r (.63) $1900

top mount manifold $900 (after getting a sh#t one off ebay for $399 that didnt fit!!

Tial 38mm wastegate $499

turbosmart super sonic bov $300

fmic + piping (custom mandrell bent aluminium) $1600

oil and auto trans cooler $600

turbosmart e boost $750

uni chip piggy back $1600 (including labour and dyno tune)

oil catch can $150

turbo timer $299

3" turbo back custom stainless exhaust $1700

shift kit for the auto $380

grex metal head gasket $500

nismo 555cc injectors $1200

fuel pump$300

plus labour (has been in the workshop for 2 months!!)

this f#@ker better go hard!!

then there is the non performace up grades

R34 front seats re trimed in black leather to match the back $$??????

10.5" lcd and dvd player $3500

R34 wheels $2000

tow bar!!!! $350

rear wing $450

S T A G E A number plates $400

AND I STILL DONT GET MY LICENCE BACK TILL OCTOBER!!!!!!!

Hope your going to post some pics of your upgraded Stagea. :flamed:

hypothetically i didnt set out to spend $10'000 but its got there!!!

garrett GT35r (.63) $1900

top mount manifold $900 (after getting a sh#t one off ebay for $399 that didnt fit!!

Tial 38mm wastegate $499

turbosmart super sonic bov $300

fmic + piping (custom mandrell bent aluminium) $1600

oil and auto trans cooler $600

turbosmart e boost $750

uni chip piggy back $1600 (including labour and dyno tune)

oil catch can $150

turbo timer $299

3" turbo back custom stainless exhaust $1700

shift kit for the auto $380

grex metal head gasket $500

nismo 555cc injectors $1200

fuel pump$300

plus labour (has been in the workshop for 2 months!!)

this f#@ker better go hard!!

then there is the non performace up grades

R34 front seats re trimed in black leather to match the back $$??????

10.5" lcd and dvd player $3500

R34 wheels $2000

tow bar!!!! $350

rear wing $450

S T A G E A number plates $400

AND I STILL DONT GET MY LICENCE BACK TILL OCTOBER!!!!!!!

How do you find the shift kit? Well worth the money?

i was told the shift kit was a must for the power it should make(not going to come out with any claims yet!!)

syd kid put me on to a guy in SA

brakes and susp next.................................................

i was told the shift kit was a must - syd kid put me on to a guy in SA QUOTE]

Hi R33stagea' date='

Ive had my Stagea on the Adelaide roads for 1 week now, and would be very intrested in finding out who does the shift kit that you spoke of.....

Could you let me know please? Thanks very much. :uh-huh:

[email protected]

Brendan

I've installed the upgraded valve body that SK was recommending a while ago. I got it from adelaide. Now to remember the name? It was MV Automatics (speak with Mike) 1 Stirling Rd Blackwood, SA 5051. PH 0883700430. Highly recommended shifts a whole lot better and harder.

Cheers ICE

It was MV Automatics (speak with Mike) 1 Stirling Rd Blackwood, SA 5051.  Highly recommended shifts a whole lot better and harder. Cheers ICE

Sweet, thanks Ice! I'll keep that in mind for when Im ready to have it installed.

Hey, I too have a Dayz edition (just found that out!).

Brendan. :evil:

I have added a new item to my list, well maybe not a NEW item but I have certainly moved it up the scale a bit. BRAKES, I was playing with an XR6 Turbo last night and ended up with NO STOPPING. That was very exciting as I was braking very late and making sure I had higher corner speed to offset the power deficiency. He slowed up a bit more than I needed to, so I had to grab a bit of extra brake and there was nothing there.

So got some DBA rotors this morning and I am still persuing the brake pads (refer Stagea brakes thread).

Considering the power output potential of your thing R33stagea and the lack of handling mods, I would be looking very seriously at a brake upgrade.:)

So got some DBA rotors this morning and I am still persuing the brake pads

Hi SK,

Ive read so much great info about Stageas from your threads, cheers to you.

FYI, I put cross drilled and slotted DBA rotors to the front end of my VR SS sedan (trying to sell it now that Ive got CoolPC's stagea), and slotted discs only to the rear end. Used Bendix Ultimate pads..... I can confirm that they change the braking remarkedly for a 1600kg car. Definately worth the small $$ outlay.

May I ask if you upgraded the front and rear, and what sort of DBA's are you going to use? Good luck with the pads.

Brendan :evil:

Hi SK,

Ive read so much great info about Stageas from your threads, cheers to you.

FYI, I put cross drilled and slotted DBA rotors to the front end of my VR SS sedan (trying to sell it now that Ive got CoolPC's stagea), and slotted discs only to the rear end. Used Bendix Ultimate pads..... I can confirm that they change the braking remarkedly for a 1600kg car. Definately worth the small $$ outlay.  

May I ask if you upgraded the front and rear, and what sort of DBA's are you going to use? Good luck with the pads.

Brendan :evil:

Hi Brendan, I have started a new thread for Stagea Brakes, all the info (so far) is on there. OK on the DBA rotors, we use their slotted rotors on most of the race cars and all of the road cars.:)

Hi SK - Yup, had a look at that as soon as it came up. Thank you.....

Well done on posting up the info that ppl's can use for those extremely important things called brakes!

FYI ppl's, Ive got a mod'd Fireblade (150rwhp up from 115 stock).... yay to me, and as part of my 9grand spent on mods I did a 17inch front wheel conversion from a USA model CBR600 F3. With the new rim, I couldnt use the standard sized 310mm rotors, and have to use F3 296mm rotors, due to offest size.

Even with the top pads on the market, cleaned up calipers, and stainless steel braided lines, the brakes arnt anywhere near as good as what they were - and believe me, when you've gone up in power by 30% and dropped weight by a few kgs, you really notice the lack of feel and bite. At xxx speeds it can be scary!

For those that are spending say over 5k on engine mods, think long and hard about doing a cheap DBA upgrade, as per SK's Stagea Brake thread. You will notice the difference, and be glad you upgraded.

Cheers to you all, good luck with the mods!

Brendan :evil:

you mean to say ive had to spend all this money to make it go,NOW ive gotta spend more to make it stop!!!  

i thought thats what the gravel at the end is for!!!!!!!

Nope, you are supposed to turn left before the gravel......or is it right.... :confused: :confused: :confused:

Nope, you are supposed to turn left before the gravel......or is it right.... :confused:  :confused:  :confused:

Actually, in order to stop, try Both! Turn left real hard, then a quick right turn even harder, and 'hopefully' you'll stop, facing the way you came! But I wouldnt want to try it!!! :innocent:

Look at it this way, the brakes stop you from dying and the suspension keeps the tread evenly on the ground (so that the brakes can stop you from dying!).

If you're spending cash modifying a vehicle then spend roughly 25-30% of your budget on the brakes and suspension. Thats just my 5c, for whatever its worth.

On the CBR900RR Ive had all the suspension rebuilt by an ex 1980's 500GP rider to suit my 2m tall 125kg frame, but am saving for my last 2 mods, $500 310mm wave rotors with the correct offset, and a $1200 Ohlins rear suspension linkage.

The bike goes hell hard thru the Adelaide Hills (I go out 1st thing on a weekend morning to minimise traffic density and the risk of being BUSTED). But it'll be a different beast again once the brakes are back up to spec, and the rear is all sorted with top spec Ohlins (I get stuff at wholesale, so save mega $$).

'Aint mod's fun?

BW :evil:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...