Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why wouldn't you weld a diff in a r32?   best mod i ever did!!! (not to mention cheapest)

1. they brake when doin ringies, then its time for a new diff.

2. its just unsafe drivin in the hills when its wet wif a locker,or any where at a speed higher than about 60.

3.there not legal.

4.why not just get an lsd,they dont brake,there safer and there legal

my 2 cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82404-locker/#findComment-1493562
Share on other sites

1. they brake when doin ringies, then its time for a new diff.

2. its just unsafe drivin in the hills when its wet wif a locker,or any where at a speed higher than about 60.

3.there not legal.

4.why not just get an lsd,they dont brake,there safer and there legal

my 2 cents

Compaired to a $1500 2 way? I dont mean to sound rude, but a locked diff is a locked diff, it doesnt matter how fancy the diff is, or whats in it. If its locked its that simple.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82404-locker/#findComment-1493609
Share on other sites

1. they brake when doin ringies, then its time for a new diff.

2. its just unsafe drivin in the hills when its wet wif a locker,or any where at a speed higher than about 60.

3.there not legal.

4.why not just get an lsd,they dont brake,there safer and there legal

my 2 cents

1. LSD's need an overhaul from time to time (re-shim) adds more cost. A welded diff will need to be replaced. I've been drifting with my diff 3 nights a week for about 4-5 months now and it's holding up to the challenge no probs!

2. 2-way is just as safe/unsafe as it does the same thing!

3. 2-ways are also not legal!

4. 2-ways cost more, and require servicing/reshim's

Have you driven with a locked diff before? have you driven with a good 2-way?

a 2 way in good condition is just the same as welded, (however it will unlock with the clutch in).

imo, they are perfectly safe, people have this misconception that as soon as you go around a corner in the wet, you'll loose control.

This is not true, you just have to be a bit wary of how the car will react. A locked diff is far more predictable than a viscous lsd or an open wheeler, and if i was in the situation where i lost control in the wet, i'd rather have the confidence you get with a locker that i can put the power down all the time!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82404-locker/#findComment-1493724
Share on other sites

If the diff is locked (welded), then it's locked. It will be a piglet to park the car. It will skip the inside tyre when doing U-turns. It will be a bigger piglet if you have to push the car around a corner.

A LSD is only "locked" when it needs to be, and that is usually only when the centre senses a loss of traction in 1 wheel and transfers drive to the opposite wheel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82404-locker/#findComment-1493822
Share on other sites

say for someone who is looking at doing track work (i.e. not drifting, but actually racing against cars/clocks etc) what would be the best sort of diff? 1 way LSD? or 1.5 way?

The way i see it, is if you're doing circuit work, you don't want the diff to be locked when you back off the throttle, otherwise its going to lift-off oversteer easier, or push understeer if you're already in the corner and it can't break traction, therefore, i would think that the 1 way would be best (for circuit anyway)?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82404-locker/#findComment-1493934
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...