Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Something a few of you might want to consider doing... whether its just for track use, or have future plans for more power.

Definately a possible DIY job - and definately NOT if you havent got a clue.

I did the conversion myself with alot of blood, sweat and tears, heaps of swearing.

Took me a few weeks, but all up a day or two work total:

- R32 Front and Rear Calipers.

- R32 DBA Slotted Rotors Front - four stud by DBA (no redrilling)

- R32 Stock Rotors Rear redrilled to 4 stud.

- ADR approved custom front braided brake lines.

- Bendix Ultimate pads.

- Motul RBF600 Brake fluid.

Its pretty straight forward, but if you need pictures/instructions to carry out this upgrade then i don't think you should be attempting it anyway.

Here's the final result.

DSC01152.JPG

DSC01151.JPG

DSC01149.JPG

DSC01150.JPG

DSC00659.JPG

Cheers

Eug

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82456-project-r33-gts-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

hey eug..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=61703

this pretty much is the same process.. which has everything laid out :huh:

Yours looks good though, with proper braided lines and doing it all with quality components. Well done!

i've been looking for a brake upgrade for a while now. Are the r32 brakes better than what's the r33s. and why not just get a 4-5 stud converter (saw a few for sale here and there ASM had one advertised i think) and then get 5 stud brakes. I'm not meaning to be a nay sayer just genuinely wondering as i have no idea. How much did it all cost you? did you use r32gtst or gtr calipers?

hey eug..  

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=61703

this pretty much is the same process.. which has everything laid out :D

Yours looks good though, with proper braided lines and doing it all with quality components. Well done!

ahh sorry Gordo, I didnt realise that the non-type m 32s had NA brakes...

figured it was a 180/S13 and NA skylines type thing.

MR R33: I plan to have a bit of fun on the track with it, and yes its all to prevent fade and heat.

Kor'axis: 33 brakes are bigger than 32s. The reason I didnt go with the studs was that I already had rims.

Eug

nice wheels by the way, what size rim is that???

those blakes looks smaller hahahhaha :unsure:

thnx dude, took me a while (read: ~3 months) to find a set that i really liked and would fit the 4 stud pattern. They are a 17x7 rim.

wot blakes look smaller? brakes? :rolleyes:

thnx dude, took me a while (read: ~3 months) to find a set that i really liked and would fit the 4 stud pattern. They are a 17x7 rim.

wot blakes look smaller? brakes? ;)

haha spelling mistake.. hahah

I ment to say brake discs looks small when you have 17" wheel :)

hahahah I was being funny :)

as I said up grade look smick!!! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...