Jump to content
SAU Community

SR20DET vs RB25DET Torque Output


Recommended Posts

Peak torque is not the only important factor, but where the peak occurs and if it is a very flat curve or if it spikes.

The Rb engines torque may be more consistent through out the entire rev line, and in the last 2/3000 rpm before redline, im betting it is much higher then the SR's engine.

Also, your comparing two modified engines, one may be more modded then the other regardless of capacity.

:uh-huh:

Guest TropikalSX

I've done a little more research and the MODs on the engines may have been more significant on one or the other. As far as SR20DET and RB20DET engines go, there is more down low torque in the SR20DET because of the piston bore size being biggger while the RB20DET engine has smaller pistons that have to run hard. I haven't heard anything about the RB20 engine having more ballz down low but RB20 has better top end with the 6.

Latez,

Derek

A Std Aussy SR20DET apparently delivers max torque at around 4800rpm where as for some reason the RB20DET delivers it at 3200rpm.

I would like to drive a SR20DET as with my rb20det she kicks at around 3000-3200 i suppose... I wonder if that is actually the feel of max torque or just the tubo?!?!?

What I mean is if a SR20DET had that same kick from max torque that would feel laggy?!?!

hrmmm...

here is a little bit of text from an article on te R32 GTST from AUTOSPEED...

158kW at 6200 rpm and a peak torque figure of 263Nm available at a useable 3200 rpm

and for a 180SX with SR20DET (on 100 octane fuel)...

...max power is 150kW (at 6000 rpm) and max torque is 275Nm (at 4000 rpm)

But I believe your original THREAD says SR20DET vs RB25DET not RB20DET..

so for the RB25DET... AUTOSPEED story tells me...

...187kW (at 6400 rpm) and 294Nm (at 4800 rpm).

So YES, the RB25 has more torque than the SR20DET

All the info above is for stock engine quotes from the factory..

I hope this helps..

If you want to check the AUTOSPEED site, it's pretty good.

Autospeed

Go to the bottom and search for what you want..

TT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...