Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I bought this car for daily duties but it decided it doesn't really feel like doing them anymore...

The car stalled one morning and wouldn't restart. I don't know what's wrong with it... it's possibly the distributor but i don't know.

Basically though, i havn't got the time or the patience to get it going again, i just want to get rid of it (it's just a camry).

The car is in great condition, there's a little rust on the drivers side A-pillar and a crack in the passenger side of the windscreen but other than that, clean and tidy throughout. it's got central locking and a cd player. Interior is clean as throughout. huge boot!

The car is rego'd till the end of Aug so if you get it going again soon you'll be laughing for rego (pink slip, rego and green slip as per norm)...

Price is $600 ono

these are still selling for about 2-2.5K so it's a good buy.

feel free to email me:

[email protected] (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm)

[email protected] (Sat / Sun)

Or give me a call on the mobile

0422 646 173

Here are some pictures i have... they're the only ones sorry.

Cheers all,

Dave.

PIC_0201.JPG

PIC_0202.JPG

PIC_0203.JPG

PIC_0205.JPG

PIC_0206.JPG

PIC_0207.JPG

PIC_0208.JPG

PIC_0209.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82715-1990-holden-apollo-sedan/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...