Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all. Need some help finding some parts to get my car back on the road. Its a HR30, If anyone can help me it would be great.

* Clutch master cylinder

* Braded hose for oil feed line to turbo

* Brake calipers (rear)

* Handbrake cables

* etc etc

I am located on the gold coast but i work in brissy. Any info is helpful

Cheers

Michael :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82851-r30-off-the-road/
Share on other sites

Hello all. Need some help finding some parts to get my car back on the road. Its a HR30, If anyone can help me it would be great.

* Clutch master cylinder

* Braded hose for oil feed line to turbo

* Brake calipers (rear)

* Handbrake cables

* etc etc

I am located on the gold coast but i work in brissy. Any info is helpful

Cheers

Michael :rofl:

try this guy,

jeff, nis-power on 5559-2222, he's in carrara just off the high way.

i know he might have most of what you need,

the rear calipars are the same as the MR30 aus version, he'll have second hand brake cables, if you want new ones i know a place just across from harbour town that will make them for $55 each.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82851-r30-off-the-road/#findComment-1499773
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Hello all. Need some help finding some parts to get my car back on the road. Its a HR30, If anyone can help me it would be great.

* Clutch master cylinder

* Braded hose for oil feed line to turbo

* Brake calipers (rear)

* Handbrake cables

* etc etc

I am located on the gold coast but i work in brissy. Any info is helpful

Cheers

Michael  :)

I have an MR30 Hatch just about to go to the TIP and it has a complete stock HR30 rear end if your interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82851-r30-off-the-road/#findComment-1548772
Share on other sites

Don't know Adam, but RSX84 suggests Pioneer Coaches might be pretty cheap if your interested.

I just listed the complete body as the body/engine number holds an engineers report for a/mkt turbo application.

PM me if your interested in this or me acquiring lower control arms hear as any hatch is identical to yours.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82851-r30-off-the-road/#findComment-1549391
Share on other sites

Hey Ghostrider,

What diff do you have there and how much do you want for it?

It's only an R180 Open Diff 3.9:1, I kept the 3.9:1 LSD for a spare, but it may go up for grabs a bit later, but you would need to get in line for any R200 LSD on this forum. They can't be bought for less than a grand these days as they are getting very rare. The R180 if you want it has only done 60k so keep me informed.

The decision to scrap it will be made this weekend, so the rear calipers & handbrake cables etc will be available, if you don't get new ones in the mean time.

Cheers,

Dennis

RSX84,

Whats the name of the place near Harbour Town for the hand brake cables?

Cheers

Michael  :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82851-r30-off-the-road/#findComment-1552477
Share on other sites

Adam,

I'm not leaving this body sit here forever, if no one takes up the offer by Saturday it's going.

If you want the rear arms let me know and you can have 'em.

Cheers,

Dennis

any idea on what freight to Adelaide would be on the rear arms to Adelaide?  I've bent something, possibly the rhs rear arm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82851-r30-off-the-road/#findComment-1552480
Share on other sites

Yeah that would be great, I was just going to keep quiet about it as I'd rather see someone take the entire car off your hands and rebuild it than take a few bits off it and scrap it, but if no-one buys it the arms, particularly the rhs would be useful to me.

Is the bit that bolts the diff onto the shell the same on a wagon as my coupe? I may have bent that, I pushed the car backwards out the shed and while that exaservated the toe out on the right rear (its jacked the car up on that side pretty much) the left rear wheel has pushed out at the back a bit, so either I was running toe in on the back before I smacked the right side, and its that toe in which is making the left wheel pop out a bit when I pushed it backwards, OR I've knocked the diff across... I didnt think that was possible, especially given that it wasnt an overly hard 'crash' (hairpin on a dirt/gravel road, swung out slightly too far and put the right rear into the dirt embankment on the side of the road) but atm it looks like the left wheel is sitting out, right wheel is sitting in, though it could just be the result of the current alignment and me pushing it backwards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82851-r30-off-the-road/#findComment-1552525
Share on other sites

Dennis,

I dont mind that its an open wheeler. Im realy just chasing one incase mine goes BANG. I found the rear calipers but I might still need those handbrake cables. Just name the price as I have to get my car back on the road, I'm having major withdrawls from not driving it.

Thanks again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82851-r30-off-the-road/#findComment-1552696
Share on other sites

The R30 Van/Wagon has a different rear end set up entirely to our coupes, it has a live rear axle as well.

The bit your talking about??? is it the diff support, looks a bit like a spring or the cross member the trailing arms mount to???

Maybe you have bent the 2 posts the rear support slides on to or sheered some bolts off, as thats the only way I could see the diff moving.

But I shipped a complete rear end assembly for about $70 along with a couple of gearboxes etc to Adelaide a couple of years back and freight rates are only about $50/tonne. The rear end would be cubic, but still I can't see it costing that much.

Are bits that hard to get over there in SA.

Cheers,

Dennis

Yeah that would be great, I was just going to keep quiet about it as I'd rather see someone take the entire car off your hands and rebuild it than take a few bits off it and scrap it, but if no-one buys it the arms, particularly the rhs would be useful to me. 

Is the bit that bolts the diff onto the shell the same on a wagon as my coupe?  I may have bent that, I pushed the car backwards out the shed and while that exaservated the toe out on the right rear (its jacked the car up on that side pretty much) the left rear wheel has pushed out at the back a bit, so either I was running toe in on the back before I smacked the right side, and its that toe in which is making the left wheel pop out a bit when I pushed it backwards, OR I've knocked the diff across... I didnt think that was possible, especially given that it wasnt an overly hard 'crash' (hairpin on a dirt/gravel road, swung out slightly too far and put the right rear into the dirt embankment on the side of the road) but atm it looks like the left wheel is sitting out, right wheel is sitting in, though it could just be the result of the current alignment and me pushing it backwards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82851-r30-off-the-road/#findComment-1552716
Share on other sites

Just want to know if they have rear arms and the bit the arms bolt on to... may have bent an arm, may have bent the brackets

The bit the arms bolt on to is the rear cross member. The pivot points are welded to the cross member.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82851-r30-off-the-road/#findComment-1558158
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...