Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

He spent your cash, thats the real reason he wont give it back.

He doesnt have it.

Next time use a jap exporter, dont use any brokers and dont pay any broker fees.

whats this??

who does all the paper work for ya?

who complies the ride?

would be very interested to know

search the forum, these have been answered quite a few times. tdawg in particular is a proponent of DIYing the import process.

in a way, he's right. you assume the role of the broker and handle all the paperwork. obviously someone else ships the car, someone else complies the car, etc.

like just about any middleman, you can do their job if you have time and resources. i went with a broker on both of my imports and probably will on the next one too, simply because they have the contacts and the reputation to lose.

have a search on the forum for stories of uncompliable imports that have to be re-exported or destroyed. sobering.

So what’s the difference between you importing directly off the jap exporter or your broker importing off the exact same jap exporter on your behalf?

It costs you $1000 extra?

Exactly the same results and risks?

The amount of paperwork is almost nothing, you fill out a form or two and you email or fax another form or two. Your compliancer and customs broker will be doing most of the paperwork.

On one hand it makes me sad that after using a broker twice you don’t have the sense to not use one, if there is a third import.

On the other hand its people like you that make people with a bit of common sense, blinging rich. When I get out of uni I will need your dollars :D

Cheers

Edited by tdawg

tdawg whilst I'm sure a lot of us agree that taking the time to cut out some steps in the import process can go a long way towards saving money, we don't need to see this in every single thread in the imports section..

Vijay

we don't need to see this in every single thread in the imports section..

We don’t? Who are we? Are you trying to say that you and everyone else on this forum are a group who have the same opinion?

I see posts constantly from people who think paying some import broker in Australia is the only, or best way to get a car here.

Look three posts up from yours and you will see one.

Edited by tdawg
On the other hand its people like you that make people with a bit of common sense, blinging rich. When I get out of uni I will need your dollars  ;)

oi cripes a uni student!!! got a quote for us, have ya??

i thought i put your case fairly well in my post, but when you come out guns blazing and pants around your ankles, it makes you look like a twit.

ugh, work it out tdawg.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...