Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:D i have a problem where my car drops a cylinder intermittently it brings up engine check light .i have checked error code which is 21,and found it to be no cosecutive ignition signal while engine is running i presume this would be coil pack as my transistors are built into each and every one of my coil packs unlike earlier skylines where the had a transistor module mounted at back of engine on top of the plastic cover, but it only has happened three times and it doesnt do it long enough for me to disconnect each coil to pin point the bad coil,my biggest problem is the cost of the coils i have being qouted aprox. $2-300 a coil due to the fact that the transistor is built int the coil also depends on which coil type i have as nissan list a few part no.s does anyone no which coil part no is mine.my skyline is r34 GT with a rb20de engine or if any one no of a cheaper option in new zealand as prices for these coils are all over show the other thing i am wondering is it possibly because i have reset the computer and it always does it secound drive after reseting the computer is this possibly a phenomenen that happen with computer relearn or just a coincedence.can anyone answer this.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83358-intermittent-ignition-miss/
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

My engine light came and and I got a service they hooked up the Nissan computer but they couldn't find the problem. I rang Power Road car sales where i bought my R34 Gt from and they identified the problem by just me explaining it over the phone.

I just got a new coil pack installed by them today, costing 240, (130 for the coil pack form Nissan) They also claim to have a machine that tells them which coil pack is playing up.The car runs smooth now, but my engine light is still on. I was told that the computer needs resetting, but I would have thought that the light would switch its self off once the problem is solved.

Does any one know how to reset computer or do i need to take the car to a specialist?

My engine light came and and I got a service they hooked up the Nissan computer but they couldn't find the problem. I rang Power Road car sales where i bought my R34 Gt from and they identified the problem by just me explaining it over the phone.

I just got a new coil pack installed by them today, costing 240, (130 for the coil pack form Nissan) They also claim to have a machine that tells them which coil pack is playing up.The car runs smooth now, but my engine light is still on. I was told that the computer needs resetting, but I would have thought that the light would switch its self off once the problem is solved.

Does any one know how to reset computer or do i need to take the car to a specialist?

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, hold your foot on the brake for around 10-15 seconds, reconnect it, and voila.

Never replace with OEM Nissan coil-packs....they're the reason why you're in this situation. Get splitfires and never look back. Just replacing one coil means you'll get another do the same thing very soon, in the end all 6 *will* die and you've spent a billion dollars installing a replacement pack at a time.

Do it right the first time, splitfires! :dry:

My engine light came and and I got a service they hooked up the Nissan computer but they couldn't find the problem. I rang Power Road car sales where i bought my R34 Gt from and they identified the problem by just me explaining it over the phone.

I just got a new coil pack installed by them today, costing 240, (130 for the coil pack form Nissan) They also claim to have a machine that tells them which coil pack is playing up.The car runs smooth now, but my engine light is still on. I was told that the computer needs resetting, but I would have thought that the light would switch its self off once the problem is solved.

Does any one know how to reset computer or do i need to take the car to a specialist?

Slightly off topic - $130 per coil pack from a Nissan dealership that's not too shabby, my local Nissan dealership was asking me $196 each.... so I ended up getting a set of splitfires for $530 - to be honest I can't feel any difference (I have an r34 n/a btw) - splitfires are great value in comparison to the Nissan ones.

Splitfires in the end will save you alot of money, not every mod is going to give you a big difference. I felt good response after installing them :dry:.

But anyways. These kinda mods are more durability.

Atleast thats my opinion on this particular mod.

MRXTCZ

Speaking from experience, once packs start palying up the car runs like shit, you lose power and get missing high in the rev range under boost, and that's if you haven't already lost cylinders. It's all down hill after they go.

My advice to anyone that buys an R34 is "factor coil-packs in the price and do them straight away"

yeah you were all right. The next day the car went to shit.. They are all replaced now and the engine light is off and running smooth!

Thanx for your help..

I hope any one with this problem in the future doesnt make the same mistake.. replace them all !

  • 2 months later...
yeah you were all right. The next day the car went to shit.. They are all replaced now and the engine light is off and running smooth!

Thanx for your help..

I hope any one with this problem in the future doesnt make the same mistake.. replace them all !

Looks like I have the same problem. But I also get the TCS OFF and SLIP lights on aswell as the check engine light. Did you have those come on aswell??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...