Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

relativly new to WA and am trying to locate somewhere with all the bits required for a manual conversion on an R33.

tried most places in the phonebook that look like they may stock nissan / jap parts but no luck ... a couple of places have some shipments due to arrive in a few weeks.

just wondering if anyone could suggest anywhere else i could try ?

cheers in advance

shannon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83480-some-help-with-parts-please/
Share on other sites

Didnt you used to be in SA? think I remember seeing you on the boards from time to time over there?

Anyway, the first place I would be checking, if you havent already,is C-Red.

Not sure of any other places, but if you get really stuck you could try the likes of D1 Garage over there.

R33 manual conversion (the boxes esp) are in quite high demand, thus they can be difficult to track down.

good luck.

Didnt you used to be in SA? think I remember seeing you on the boards from time to time over there?

Anyway, the first place I would be checking, if you havent already,is C-Red.

Not sure of any other places, but if you get really stuck you could try the likes of D1 Garage over there.

R33 manual conversion (the boxes esp) are in quite high demand, thus they can be difficult to track down.

good luck.

hey steve ... how you been? yeah i used to live in SA, moved over here a lil while ago with work (still the same company)

i tried c-red but they seemed to be quite expensive. i have tried chasing all the gear down back home and could get all the parts for a (reasonable) price but would prefer to buy local incase of any drama's ...etc

in saying that i have scored a g/box today from interstate, but for the price i couldnt pass it up :P

so still searching for the rest of the bits required, not in any rush ... unless the auto decides to explode ha ha

philta,

cheers for the info mate! have spoken with ken @ hyper ... was quite helpful but im looking to save a few $$'s and have a bash at doing it myself. no better way to get to know your own car!!

I am 99% sure all the bits are at japan parts plus as I have been helping out while Raj is in Japan.

I have quoted a few half cuts and motor/box/ecu from a R33 so I know the bits are their, cant say what they will cost.

Raj is back tomorrow so drop a line to 0894932191 and see what he says, containers he just packed leave in a week.

They can do the conversion as well if required and have a very good hourly rate so ask him on that as well.

Nigel.

hey dude

try these guys... if they cant help they will direct you in a good direction...

zack at cypher industries www.cypherindustries.com.au

les at wheelspin www.wheelspin.com.au

steve at maytech maytech@bigpond.com

danny at imports101 www.imports101.com.au

tell them masahiro recomended you....

also try these guys below

speedworks www.speedworks.com.au

x speed www.xspeed.com.au

hope this helped...

masahiro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
×
×
  • Create New...