Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just installed early N1 turbos on to my r32 GTR and just wondering what boost these things are designed to run at. At 13 psi only make 10kw more than the standard ones at 13psi.

Mods are filters,exhuast and power FC.

Any help?

Thanks

they should be right at home when running b/w 16-22psi.

i have a similar question, I'm getting N1 turbos installed on my GTR as we speak, the car is standard, other than full exhaust system and aftermarket airfilters, how much boost can i safely run, without risking damage to the turbos or engine?

I was thinking around 15 pound max?

Hey sounds the the same as what ive got. Car made 220 with standard @ 13 psi and now 230 with N1s @ 13 psi . Sounds like the turbos are made to run higher boost but how far can the standard pump and injectors go? I was hoping 250-260 with 18 psi. See what the skyline gods say :P

Hey sounds the the same as what ive got. Car made 220 with standard @ 13 psi and now 230 with N1s @ 13 psi . Sounds like the turbos are made to run higher boost but how far can the standard pump and injectors go? I was hoping 250-260 with 18 psi. See what the skyline gods say :rant:

Id upgrade them to be safe anyway, if they havent had a good life and are on the way out this could be a recipe for disaster. No one likes having their engine lean out and go pop.

Id upgrade them to be safe anyway, if they havent had a good life and are on the way out this could be a recipe for disaster. No one likes having their engine lean out and go pop.

mhmm.

Pump and injectors would be a wise investment if you're going to be running around 18 pound.

heres another SK quote for ya...

N1's are OK for 1.2 bar, but nothing to do with breaking them. They just get a bit inefficient over that and heat up the air a bit. Boost is irrelevant anyway, as you do other things to improve the efficiency of the engine you will find the boost goes down but the airflow goes up. And airflow makes power not boost.

I understand that FLO is better than boost.But was concerned that runing the N1s at low levels was a waste off time.Good to know that they are efficient up to  1.2 bar but whats the other end of the scale? Is it a waste to run them at .8 or .9 bar?

Well I should know for sure on Friday......well be going on the Dyno hopefully, if nothing goes wrong, and I'll see how i go at different boost levels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...