Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clearing out my garage... LIST UPDATED

RB20DET Silvertop-

*Complete Head (Hydrolic Lifters, shaved and O-ringed) $200

*Bottom end (crank shaft, Bored for 50thou oversized pistons) $200

*Copper Head Gakset (perfect condition) $100

*Shot-peened Conrods $50set

*Air Con Compressor $100

*Power Steering Pump $100

Other Gear

*S13 Silvia/180SX Stock Castor/Radius rods (pair in perfect condition) $80

*S13 Silvia/180SX/R32 Tein Castor rod (1only in good condition) $50

*Duel Stage boost controller with incabin switch - SOLD

*18" Chrome BSA rims 3 of - $200 each (no longer make so perfect for someone who has cracked one as i did haha)

*2 10" Kicker subs in box - SOLD

*Kicker 12" subwoofer in Kicker ported box - AS NEW $150

*Sony Xplod CD/MP3 player with remote etc - SOLD

*Jaycar Responce amplifier 2X100WRMS $100

*Jaycar Amp and Kicker 12" sub together for $220 (perfect match, the pump together)

*Blaupunkt Acapulco CD/MP3 player 2 weeks old, perfect condition- RRP $659 - $250

I have pictures of all items so if your interested in anything just ask and i can send you pictures or give you more info if i can (eg measure ments etc or what ever you need) just let me know...

Post here, PM me, or email [email protected]

Edited by osiris23

Ulladulla... NSW south coast. about 3 hours south of sydney...

Monster Tacho SOLD

Pending payment for Radius rods.

Anyone interested in anything?

2 10" kickers sold...

12" kicker in kicker ported box for sale - $150 in perfect condition.

Prices are all negotiable so let me know if your interested in anything.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey im not 100% sure of the thickness of the head gasket but im pretty sure its 20thou... not sure of the compression...

RB20 head price frop to $200

RB20 Bottom end price frop to $200

$350 for the both..

CD player and boost controller SOLD.

well it was from my 180 and it was pretty highly modified... GT2840 turbo etc and was running 20pound boost and it might have leaned out or something not sure and cracked a ring lan on the 1st pistion, had some detonation on number 1 and 3.... so yer it didnt actually kill it, it wasnt bad enough that it wouldnt drive still it just deloped really bad blow by and then after pulling it apart we found the piston the way it was.... it didnt stuff the bore or anything though and as said is bored out for 50thou over sized pistions, I have all 6 pistons still if it would help at all but ofcause 1 is worthless...

If your interested or anyone else is interested ill do the head, bottom end, copper head gasket, conrods plus other parts i have laying around for say $450.... Bargin seeing justjap wanted $1300 for a head and bottom end, nothing else just stock...

[email protected] if your interested..

About 1½ months but stored well....

I have someone most probably comeing this weekend for the whole lot so i guess we'll see after this weekend...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...