Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

gtst25,

one thing i didnt get in my kit, either that or its not meant to be included, was a gasket of any kind for the exhaust turbine housing/dump pipe flange? there is a groove in the exhaust housing so we made up some copper wire to fit exactly as pictured... it probably doesnt need anything, but i didnt want to have to pull it off again incase there was a leak.

christmas2004048.jpg

Edited by SLY33
gtst25,

one thing i didnt get in my kit, either that or its not meant to be included, was a gasket of any kind for the exhaust turbine housing/dump pipe flange?  there is a groove in the exhaust housing so we made up some copper wire to fit exactly as pictured...  it probably doesnt need anything, but i didnt want to have to pull it off again incase there was a leak.

christmas2004048.jpg

No gasket in my kit either. The copper wire looks good though - would squash down nicely and heat wouldn't bother it. What does everyone else do?

I'll get dad to take some more photos of the turbine wheel bare and some measurements.

post-12959-1124295158.jpg

Thank you very much great feed back . Pics of the turbine end on and from the side would be great .

While I'm here the numbers on the ID plate would be interesting , my list shows the cartridge or CHRA number as 700177-0003 for th 84 trim turbine and 56 trim compressor . The turbine should merasure 51.6 by 56.6mm (84T) and 53.6 by 56.6mm for 90 trim .

A couple of things to note , HUGE vent for the waste gate (2835) and the model specific outlet flange pattern on the HKS 2530 to suit the RB20/25 dump pipe .

The thing I'm really curious to know is if the HKS GT3037 Pro S has a divider between the turbine outlet and the waste gate vent hole as the turbine outlet is larger again and there's not much meat with the 2835 housing .

Cheers and thanks A .

The thing I'm really curious to know is if the HKS GT3037 Pro S has a divider between the turbine outlet and the waste gate vent hole as the turbine outlet is larger again and there's not much meat with the 2835 housing .

Cheers and thanks  A .

3037ProS is an external gate only isnt it?

It'd have to have a divider between the turbine exit and wastegate - hell if it didn't you wouldn't have to bother with a split dump pipe - the gasses'd be mixing before they get there. Maybe they can move the wastegate over a bit away from the turbine but if they did that it'd still be a big job to get the housing looking right??

How much larger is the 3037 than the 2835?

hey sly33, has the problem been solved about the gt2835 pro s when it is boosted to 20psi then drops down to 18psi....?

ive noticed a few people saying thats when it boost's to 20 or above it always drops down to 17-18 , i was wondering if it had anything to do with the internal wastegate...?

Thank you very much great feed back . Pics of the turbine end on and from the side would be great .

While I'm here the numbers on the ID plate would be interesting , my list shows the cartridge or CHRA number as 700177-0003 for th 84 trim turbine and 56 trim compressor . The turbine should merasure 51.6 by 56.6mm (84T) and 53.6 by 56.6mm for 90 trim .

A couple of things to note , HUGE vent for the waste gate (2835) and the model specific outlet flange pattern on the HKS 2530 to suit the RB20/25 dump pipe .

The thing I'm really curious to know is if the HKS GT3037 Pro S has a divider between the turbine outlet and the waste gate vent hole as the turbine outlet is larger again and there's not much meat with the 2835 housing .

Cheers and thanks  A .

ID plate numbers:

IA 0156J

GT2835-56T

100177-5003

Turbine dia: 51.17mm top, 56.5 bottom

wastegate dia 35mm

inlet compressor 100mm

outlet compressor 50mm

It's amasing how small the thing is - it must spin like crazy. The turbos on the boat I work on spin @ 56000 rpm - 2070KW per engine. That's nearly 1000 times a second - pretty hard to imagine hey?

post-12959-1124435019.jpg

post-12959-1124435652.jpg

post-12959-1124435778.jpg

post-12959-1124435961.jpg

post-12959-1124436103.jpg

Edited by gtst25

The inside of the turbine housing?

Does it have daggy cast marks etc or does it look as if its been cleaned up or possibly really good castings?

I've seen garret items that look pretty messy inside. Bolts poking through in to the comps airflow stream etc.

Edited by Cubes
The inside of the turbine housing?

Does it have daggy cast marks etc or does it look as if its been cleaned up or possibly really good castings?

I've seen garret items that look pretty messy inside. Bolts poking through in to the comps airflow stream etc.

I'll get dad to have a look when it comes back from ceamic coating.

I don't think he wants to take the compressor cover off - if he dropped or bumped the wheel the wrong way my new turbo would probably go out of balance.

It's amasing how small the thing is - it must spin like crazy. The turbos on the boat I work on spin @ 56000 rpm - 2070KW per engine. That's nearly 1000 times a second - pretty hard to imagine hey?

probably upwards of 120,000rpm.

more to the tune of 150,000rpm+

probably upwards of 120,000rpm.

more to the tune of 150,000rpm+

I see the Bandag bullet's turbos goto 180000rpm.

On our MTU's we've got turbo rev counters - must have a magnetised part of the compressor wheel and a sensor bolts into the compressor housing. They run 3.6 bar boost press @ full noise.

hey sly33, has the problem been solved about the gt2835 pro s when it is boosted to 20psi then drops down to 18psi....?

ive noticed a few people saying thats when it boost's to 20 or above it always drops down to 17-18 , i was wondering if it had anything to do with the internal wastegate...?

Mario dont tell me your getting this turbo ?? haha

Heard you were going for some Apexi item ????

Mario dont tell me your getting this turbo ?? haha

Heard you were going for some Apexi item ????

hahah im just intrested thats all ... i was just wondering why it does it ..i was reading from grepin posts with this turbo......yes im going apexi high mount see what happens .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...