Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

So that price would be with a fibreglass bonnet and front bar and guards and other parts genuine BNR34?

Looks like they only replace part of the radiator support not the whole panel

New bonnet hinges and bar reinforcement

I am half decided between buying series 1 and doing the conversion or buying a series 2 stagea and leaving the standard front

I have been doing some more research

Ernie will not make and sell a pair of guards.

He wants to sell the moulds for the front guards, front bar std GTR, Nismo side skirts and rear bar for $6000

He has got to be joking.

Can organise the genuine Masa front guards for $1150 plus freight from Japan EMS

thru a Australian company that deals with them

I have studied the photo of the parts in the kit Masa sells and priced the parts up

Guards approx $1650

Bonnet $650 fibreglass carbon $1050 could maybe get a genuine alloy one for $1000

Head lights s/hand $400 pair (just bought some) :O

Front bar copy of GTR or most other aftermarket ones $500

All the factory bits needed, hinges, bonnet catch, bar support, radiator support etc $1000-1200 new

Front indicators $150

Total approx $5000

Less the sale of the factory stagea front of $1500-2000

I can do the conversion myself and most the painting, so it should cost me about $3500-4000 for the conversion.

I just need to find a car now!

I have one in the pipe line that will only owe approx $11000 landed and complied, so will see how I go. It is a petty that the conversion will cost as much as the car will

When i get the guards, I will be making a set of moulds, just incase they get broken. (I might also sell them too :( )

Hhmm. Pricey.

Add on a Neo turbocharger, a Neo tortiseshell engine cover, the tiptronic gearshift / manual conversion, etc etc...

Best to buy a straight Series 2!!!!

Brendan

I have been doing some more research

Ernie will not make and sell a pair of guards.

He wants to sell the moulds for the front guards, front bar std GTR, Nismo side skirts and rear bar for $6000

He has got to be joking.

Can organise the genuine Masa front guards for $1150 plus freight from Japan EMS

thru a Australian company that deals with them

I have studied the photo of the parts in the kit Masa sells and priced the parts up

Guards approx $1650

Bonnet $650 fibreglass carbon $1050 could maybe get a genuine alloy one for $1000

Head lights s/hand $400 pair (just bought some) :(

Front bar copy of GTR or most other aftermarket ones $500

All the factory bits needed, hinges, bonnet catch, bar support, radiator support etc $1000-1200 new

Front indicators $150

Total approx $5000

Less the sale of the factory stagea front of $1500-2000

I can do the conversion myself and most the painting, so it should cost me about $3500-4000 for the conversion.

I just need to find a car now!

I have one in the pipe line that will only owe approx $11000 landed and complied, so will see how I go. It is a petty that the conversion will cost as much as the car will

When i get the guards, I will be making a set of moulds, just incase they get broken. (I might also sell them too :P )

If you do that, I want a mould of those gaurds! And bonnet etc. Who did you buy the lights from?

When you thinking of doing the conversion? :O

I got the lights off the forums

To take a mould off the guards will cost me an extra $1000, so I will be making extra sets for sale to get some costs back.

I will most likely buy a carbon bonnet or a factory alloy bonnet, as most fibreglass bonnets I have seen are full of ripples being a large flat surface.

As soon as I get a car. Hopefully I will find a car in the next few weeks and then wait for it to arrive from Japan. Would like to do the conversion as soon as the car is complied. The time waitng for the car will allow me enough time to get all the conversion parts.

I am waiting on another price from another supplier which I think will work out cheaper. will let you know.

In the mean time, it would be great to sell my VX wagon and R33 gtst.

Picking up a factory 34 GTR alloy bonnet tonight

Got it for a bargin $650

Found one other for $1100

The headlights deal fell over, apparently the guy selling them off these forums has sold the same ones twice before to other buyers and never sent them

Luckly, I found this out in time before I direct deposited the money

I am bidding on 2 sets on Yahoo, so hopefully i will get a pair. New ones are $1100 pair.

Still trying to get the guards out of Skyline imports. He is not interested in making me a set at any price....strange

The guy I am getting the bonnet off knows him well and is going to try and get him to make a set for me

The other choice is to buy the Masa ones, but everyone who has or does deal with them said they are not normally in stock and take 2-3 months to get them and they are rude to deal with

At $1250 a pair plus EMS freight and possible duty it could cost me upto $2000 for a pair

So things are coming along slowly, but I have plenty of time because I have still not bought a car yet! Word of advise... Do not get married!

Picking up a factory 34 GTR alloy bonnet tonight

Got it for a bargin $650

Found one other for $1100

The headlights deal fell over, apparently the guy selling them off these forums has sold the same ones twice before to other buyers and never sent them

Luckly, I found this out in time before I direct deposited the money

I am bidding on 2 sets on Yahoo, so hopefully i will get a pair. New ones are $1100 pair.

Still trying to get the guards out of Skyline imports. He is not interested in making me a set at any price....strange

The guy I am getting the bonnet off knows him well and is going to try and get him to make a set for me

The other choice is to buy the Masa ones, but everyone who has or does deal with them said they are not normally in stock and take 2-3 months to get them and they are rude to deal with

At $1250 a pair plus EMS freight and possible duty it could cost me upto $2000 for a pair

So things are coming along slowly, but I have plenty of time because I have still not bought a car yet! Word of advise... Do not get married!

Nice to see it coming together....lets hope you get those front guards ^_^

Married? I dont even no the meaning of the word! :lol:

One more thing mate - your getting an R34 GTR bonnet...Is there any difference to say a GTT Bonnet?

Yes

The are totally different between the head lights where it meets the grille

Picked up the bonnet last, very light being alloy

He is a vehicle J-spec just sent thru to me

I nearly got a little Stagea woody

http://www.j-specimports.com/dealernet/details.php?id=845110

Might be a bit hard to comply?

Manual aswell

34GTR wheels

approx 35k complied

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...