Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I put a straight through exhaust on my pretty much stock R33 Skyline for track days will this hurt anything ?? there will no cat and muffler.

Can someone tell me the advantages and disadvantages of this

Cheers

SirSkyline

I ran a straight through zaust on my old r33, only had 4 bends in the whole thing (1 turbo down, 2 bend to flat, 3 just past the cat(which was gutted), 4 just a small bend to get around the rear diff) and what I thought was a muffler was actually a bit of stainless steel welded around the pipe to make it look like a muffler.

Was VERY loud, apparently, well it was not drony or loud in the cabin.... :(

Anyway ran 7psi fine and ran 12psi with fmic fine, for 18mths.

Nope but I did have a SAFC installed and tuned.

Personally I would actually drop the cat and cat back off if I was going to the track, or go to any good exhaust shop and get them to make a small pipe with a bend it it to shoot the fumes out the side of the car and bolt it up to where the cat usually goes, then you'll get some noise!!!

Of course if you then decided to drive this on the road and get caught you would be in VERY big trouble, sounds absolutly hella good though! Revhead on here has a small pipe which he fits to his R33 with a PowerFC for track days, with his hybrid t3/t4 turbo, all you hear is that sweet high pitch whislte of boost once it comes on!

Oh and when I was running totally stock I dyno'd 132rwkw, then just after putting a cat back zaust on, no other changes, 2 weeks later at the same dyno I got 147rwkw.

Just goes to show just how much power can be gained by using the right exhaust system.

In the end with my pipe, pod, fmic, bleed valve set to 10psi and SAFC I got 177rwkw, not bad considering I started off with 132rwkw.

woldnt you be shooting flames though  :P

I guess you could get away with it if indeed you we able to do it discretely. However, it would be one loud car as you have discovered.

I would not be complaining one bit if it does shot flames. B) I might put a cat on it after the track day and see how we go for a while

I remember a while back when I installed my dump pipe that I accidently left a slight gap between the manifold that connected the turbo and dump. Result? the most awesome sounding noise from an RB engine, an added bonus was that is so friggn fast as well. Sorry, bit off topic. hehe

Does it have no cat at all...... hmmmm I have heard that no cat = HUGE fines :( when a cop looks under your car and see's no cat then there is a much high probability that you will get reamed. Best thing to do is to get a cat and gut it and whack that in, then at least it looks like there is a cat there to the cops.

Which can be easily changed for a proper cat + stock zaust to clear defects.

Side pipes are illeagal as they have no cat, and are freakin loud.

I'll take a pic of Revheads side pipe he uses for track purposes, it is louder than a 747!! Sounds awesome, but not worth the tens of thousands you might get in fines if pulled over.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...